Coralview Comedown

A paradise island should be the most relaxing place on earth but somehow it's been shattering. Once the boys had left, the late nights of the last ten days caught up with us and we were all on a bit of a comedown. Though we picked ourselves up for long enough to reach Coralview Island, as soon as we arrived we dropped straight back down into a hammock and didn't move for almost two days. 

As Coralview was our last island before heading back to the mainland we felt we were fully justified in making the most of island life and doing very, very little. On our final evening, however, we felt the need to exert ourselves and so followed the hiking trail up the hill for sunset. It seems not many others managed even that though as the pathway was completely overgrown and we had to fight our way through tall reeds to reach the top. Our reward once we got there was the most amazing views over Coralview and the surrounding islands, and a cheerful Fijian man who set the mood, playing old school love tunes from his shabby looking Nokia phone. 

Our island hopping adventure has been nothing short of perfect but it's been more of a luxurious holiday than backpacker travelling. We all feel it's now time to get back to the mainland where there are no five star resorts, nor porters to carry our bags, but a whole load of traditional Fijian culture to discover. I think I may even put some shoes on for the occasion. 

Poetry in Paradise

I've always loved writing but sadly my hectic lifestyle back home often stood in the way of me picking up a pen and scribbling. Taking a year out to travel has given me both the time and the subject matters to develop this passion further and I've found myself writing not only this blog but short stories and poems too. Some I've written for friends, others just for fun and one is even being published in the SEA Backpacker Magazine next month. 

Anyway, it was becoming addictive and before long the others wanted in on the action - cue the poetry off in Fiji. Though it started as a joke the results were kind of awesome so I thought I'd share them on here. There's a few 'had to be there' jokes thrown around in some but the majority should make sense to all. 

*

Fiji Time - by Chiara 

This short story,

All began,

With just two travellers,

Chiara and Han,

They packed in their jobs,

Said 'see ya' to friends,

And escaped to Asia,

Where fun never ends. 

They posted their updates,

And pictures online,

Of beaches and palm trees, 

And blazing sunshine.

Then Jodie and Eric, 

After seeing all this,

Realised that it was

Too good to miss.

They booked their tickets,

And flew out to Asia, 

First Java, then Bali, 

Then back to Malaysia. 

Meanwhile the first two,

Had jet off again, 

Bought tickets to Aus,

And jumped on a plane. 

In Melbs they met Vicky, 

Who knew they were poor, 

So let them both sleep,

On her bedroom floor.

Throughout the week,

They sewed the seed,

And before they knew it,

It was all agreed.

She'd meet them in Fiji,

With the rest of the crew, 

Which was now up to five,

No longer just two.

And how could we forget? 

Our good friend Kate,

Far away in London,

But planning escape. 

She passed her exams,

With a huge pay-rise,

So of course she'd join us,

In paradise! 

But still there was more,

To add to the clan, 

Three boys to complete,

The Fiji fam. 

They met them in Sydney,

Stu, Will and Jack,

And once they'd met them,

There was no going back.

Within a few hours,

They'd booked flights too,

All except,

Our poor little Drew.

We're yet to see,

How well he'll survive,

Without Daddy Stuart,

And the money supplies. 

But he's staying behind,

Back in Balmain town,

Just doing his best, 

Not to burn the place down.

Whilst the rest are here,

In Fiji, Nadi, 

Joining the girls,

For one big 'pardy'. 

So that is how,

The two became nine,

Now we're off to enjoy,

Some Fiji time! 

*

Fiji, Fiji - by Stuart 

Fiji Fiji, we are finally here,

A moment I have been anticipating for almost a year.

The islands are charming, so nice to see,

We are here with our travelling family.

The weather is hot and the beers are cold,

I want to live here until I get old.

Here we are hopping from place to place,

All the fun to come - watch this space!

Many moments to cherish and good times to come,

Making the most of being so young.

The sea is pure and as clear as day,

We are living life the Fiji way.

It will be very sad when we have to go,

On The boat journey home I will feel so low.

(Although Europe is a go)

*

Fiji Birthday - by Hana 

Banana trees 

Coconut shells

Pink flowers

Summer smells

Nine people

All together

Blue sea 

And perfect weather

Cute and small

Getting burnt

Her names Veronica

Why hasn't she learnt?

Sleepless nights

Early rises

Happy faces

Stuart wises

Glowing tans

Beaming sun

The boy called Jack

Always having fun 

Cracking jokes

Sleeping late

William whiteman

Is everyone's mate

Writing poems

Pretty dresses

Chiara Pelizzari 

Has no stresses 

Jodie mckane

Dogs and fish

To see every animal

Is her wish

Organised suitcase

Efficient packing

Bikini bodies

Kate's not been slacking

Bites on legs

Vicky comber

Witty remarks

This poems over.

*

The poetry trend was in fact started by my Nan who sent me the cutest poem over Christmas and New Year and has continued to email her updates in verse ever since. So thank you to her, our biggest inspiration!

Sad Day on Mantaray

The morning we left for Mantaray Island the weather reflected our mood; sunshine for the most part but with dark clouds looming, as the end of the boys' trip drew worryingly near.

However, by the time we'd loaded our bags onto the small fisherman's boat it had turned into a fully fledged storm. As usual we met the ferry out in the middle of the ocean but what was normally a relatively easy transfer was made near impossible as the rain hammered down on us and the small boat was thrown from side to side. With all my worldly possessions on board I wasn't sure whether to prioritise myself or my backpack - though the latter is replaceable it definitely can't swim. 

One by one we tried to hop across but as the waves grew taller the small boat was forced to retreat with Stuart and I still on board. I felt like we were playing out a scene from a movie and just hoped that like most, there'd be a happy ending! 

The situation improved slightly on the journey over but even once we reached Mantaray it still wasn't great. Luckily, as it was our last night all together we'd decided to splash out on some nicer rooms (though some nicer than others) and so relaxed in those for the afternoon. 

The food on the resort was amazing and we ate our last supper at the hilltop restaurant with great views out across the island. It was the boys' intention to go out with a bang so drinks started early; Mai Tais, Long Islands and the last few drops of Jack's Wild Turkey. A few hundred dollars of a bar tab later we were all well on our way but whilst we should have made our way to bed, instead we found our way to the beach. Every single one of us piled into the same hammock and took it in turns to wrestle each other to the ground. 

The next morning we woke up with sore heads and sad faces as the time had come for the boys to return to Sydney. We've all loved having them here and haven't stopped laughing for ten days straight. The worst part now is not knowing when we'll see them but with a few plans already in the pipeline we're just waiting for someone to book it on a whim again.

One Night in Wayalailai

As pretty as it's name, Wayalailai Island is a tropical haven with a small beach which backs onto a thriving rainforest. We stayed at Naqalia Lodge which was very basic, a family run place with limited electricity and no ceiling fans. On the plus side though it was a truly personal experience with the family adopting us as their own for the one night we were there.

The intimacy of it all was helped by the fact that once again we were practically the only people on the island. During the day we had the beach to ourselves and had first dibs on all the activities offered by the family. 

After lunch Kate and I joined 'Grandma' for a jewellery making session, stringing shells and beads together to form bracelets. Before long her real granddaughter had crawled onto her lap and helped us to pick out the prettiest gems. Later we challenged the staff to a kayaking race which ended as expected, although we may have had more of a chance had Stuart and I not sunk our boat. 

In the evening most of the group hiked up a hill for sunset but Han and I stayed behind for a solo kayaking trip. This one was considerably more successful as the sea had calmed and we both comfortably fit into one kayak. With the summit in sight we called out the names of our friends, hoping our echoes would reach their ears. Paddling all the way to the next beach, we took a moment to appreciate our stunning surroundings. There we were, gliding over brightly coloured coral which was completely visible through the crystal clear water. 

On the way back, however, it began to spit with rain and the world turned grey bar the beautiful rainbow which appeared behind the mountain. Being so far from the shore we should perhaps have been worried but the gentle pattering sounds of the rain on the water was surprisingly relaxing. We reached our room just as the storm really kicked in.

After dinner we were treated to a traditional Fijian dance performance which involved a degree of audience participation. The islanders assured us that if we danced hard enough the sun would come out the next day so we allowed them to twirl us around and teach us the 'Bula Dance.' Most of us were mortified but in hindsight it was fun. 

We feel as though we covered everything there is to do in Wayalailai in just one day so we're moving on again now, this time to Mantaray! 

Beachcomber Birthday Bash

Everyone deserves a treat on their birthday but this year I was utterly spoilt. The biggest present by far was spending it on the beautiful Beachcomber Island which ironically is rather small. Within ten minutes of arriving we'd checked into our rooms and walked the entire circumference of the island; a minuscule dot of sand in the middle of the wide ocean. 

As the island was so remote myself and Kate (who shares my birthday) weren't expecting much in terms of celebrations. It wasn't as though anyone could just pop to the shop for us and buy a cake and candles. But where there's a will there's a way! 

On the morning of our birthday, we were woken up and taken down to the beach for breakfast where the girls had tied coloured balloons to all of the palm trees. The islanders had helped them out by showing them how to wrap our gifts using giant banana leaves and flowers for decoration. They looked so beautiful that we were reluctant to open them but there were even more wonderful things hidden inside.

Whilst we ate our feast of a breakfast  (having somehow ordered more plates of pancakes than there were people) a Fijian lady came by to sing to us on her guitar. It was the traditional Happy Birthday song but with a Beachcomber twist. 

As the sun was so hot we spent most of the morning submerged in the sea, moving only to add more ice-creams to Stuart's tab. It cooled a little after lunch and so we played a round of crazy golf on the small course in the centre of the island. None of us are exactly pros but it was made even more difficult by the suspiciously uneven greens and the club which fell apart each time we hit the ball too hard. It didn't add much to our score sheets but definitely added to the humour. 

Later we tried our hands at volleyball but soon found we were equally as bad at that and had no crappy equipment to blame. Fortunately the islanders took pity on us and came to our rescue, teaching us their tactics and playing alongside. The game finished just as the sun had started to set so we grabbed a cocktail each and watched the sky transform. It amazes me that we've seen so many and yet it still melts my heart every time. 

In high season Beachcomber is Fiji's party island but with less than fifteen other guests there it was a rather intimate affair. It felt instead like our own private island and that's exactly how we treated it. After a few drinks and some Fijian birthday cupcakes we were running up and down the beach playing old school playground games until the early hours of the morning. We got so into it in fact that Will started tripping out from fatigue and had to lie down. 

Exhausted but not quite ready to sleep, we ended the night with a group star gazing session. Not only were there millions of sparkling lights scattered across the sky but if we looked closely enough we could make out the Milky Way. It was really quite spectacular and not for the first time that night I acknowledged just how lucky I was. 

As our cake had come without candles I'd yet to make a birthday wish so as shooting stars fell from the sky I considered wishing on those instead. But really, what could I possibly have wished for? In that moment life was just perfect and I couldn't have asked for a better birthday or better friends on both sides of the world. 

Magical Mana Island

Imagine a tiny white sand island in the middle of the ocean; a picture perfect paradise with palm trees, and beach huts, and cocktails on tap. Now imagine that there's three hundred and twenty two of these islands, all within just a few miles of one another but thousands of miles from the rest of the world. That is Fiji. 

The first island we hopped to was Mana Island, one of the largest of the Manamucas. In typical Fijian style we were welcomed off the ferry by florally dressed islanders singing us a song. The rickety old jetty led to the beach and a few steps later we were at our hostel. And that was it. Around the other side there were a couple of fancy resorts but we were well and truly in island backpacker quarters. There were no restaurants, no shops, no bars, no internet and no ATMs. It was quite literally beach, hostel and nothing else. 

Luckily, with a beach like this one (and Will as our walking Wikipedia to replace Google) we really didn't need much else. We spent most of our days sunbathing on the sand and then cooling off in the sea, constantly flitting between the two paradise settings. 

One afternoon we hired a boat from a local fisherman and found a great snorkelling spot near to Castaway Island. Being the water wimp that I am, I fully intended to stay on the boat but peer pressure had other ideas. Before I knew it I was bobbing up and down in the sea with eight of my friends and a whole load of fish. There were even reef sharks lurking about but thankfully I didn't see any. What I did see, however, were the most amazing coral reefs, fluorescent in colour and crazy in shape. It really is a whole other world down there, one that I'm now grateful I was forced to admire. 

On the way back to Mana we let out fishing lines to try and catch some mackerel for dinner. We had three lines between us but not an awful lot of luck. Aside from Stuart who caught one right away, the rest of us barely even got a bite. It wasn't until an hour or so later when we realised the bait had fallen off all the rods that we understood why. Fish don't find empty fishing lines all that tempting. 

As serene and peaceful as it was in the day, Mana Island turned pretty lively at night. Inevitable really, with the nine of us and Jack's leftover Wild Turkey. We played drinking games along the beach each night before stumbling back to our dorm room. One morning a few of the girls and I woke early for sunrise yoga but generally we slept in until the sun became too sweltering or the songs of the local primary school children filtered their way through the windows.

On an Island like Mana you could spend three days doing absolutely nothing because it hasn't been set up for tourism in any way. It's entirely up to you to make your own fun but I think we'd agree we did a bloody good job. 

Bula Nadi

The moment we stepped off the plane we were in holiday mode. The sun was shining, the skies were blue and the sounds of Fijian music filled the air around us. Inside the arrival lounge men continued to strum away at their ukeleles whilst women handed out shelled necklaces to new arrivals. Absolutely everyone; men, women, Fijians and foreigners alike, were all wearing colourful flowers in their hair. 

The four of us that had flown in from Auckland arrived first so checked everyone into the hostel in Nadi. We were welcomed in by the owner, 'Mama', essentially the Fijian version of Queen Latifah's character in Chicago. She assured us that if we ran into any trouble in Nadi we need only mention her name and whoever was bothering us would run away scared. I have to say I genuinely believed her. 

Before we knew it there was a knock on our door and the boys burst in with their biggest smiles, as well as vodka, whiskey and a family sized packet of Tim Tams (I couldn't decide who or what I was more excited to see.) Drinks were poured almost instantly and the games commenced, ending only once everyone was suitably un-sober and ready to hit town. 

We tried Ice Bar first which was completely empty bar the seven of us but what it lacked in people it made up for in drinks deals so we rinsed those before moving on elsewhere. It seems my memory didn't come with us but I've been informed that White House was much busier and a lot of fun. Luckily a couple of Fijians had appointed themselves as our bodyguards/taxi men for the night and eventually escorted us home safely. Once there, Jack jumped into the pool and made a whole load of noise, breaking two of Mama's house rules at once - a brave man indeed.

The next morning we were woken crazy early by the arrival of the last two members of our Fiji family, Vicky and Kate. Some of us were still drunk, others horrifically hungover but all really excited to see them after so long away (with the exception maybe of Will who's bed excited him more.) Not wanting to waste the day, we dragged ourselves out of the hostel but it took us all of ten minutes to realise the centre of Nadi really is as bad as people make out. The floral shirts and flowery hairpieces do little to distract you from the fact the beaches are dirty and the town falling apart. Even the ocean is a grey shade of blue. With that in mind we made it our priority to book the ferry to the islands for the following day in search of the paradise we'd been promised.

Unfortunately that meant another six o'clock start so we had a quiet one that evening; just a couple of cocktails at a restaurant along the beach whilst watching Fijian dancers do their thing. Back in the room Hana treated us to story time, reading Harry Potter  aloud until we all fell asleep. 

Nadi really isn't the best of places but with the nine of us together we couldn't help but have fun.

There and Back Again, New Zealand

I never imagined it would be easy to leave New Zealand but it really has pulled out all the stops in our last couple of days. 

We arrived back to our family friends' (beautiful!) house in Auckland on our penultimate evening and were welcomed in with a cup of tea and a catch up. Whereas when we stayed previously the family were away on holiday, this time they were around and keen to show us their wonderful city. After making plans for our final day we headed to bed early, exhausted from the twelve hour journey.

The next morning we woke to the smell of bacon and hot croissants and quite literally sprung out of bed. After saying an emotional goodbye to our hire vehicle we piled into Nick and Nikki's spare car and met them both at the top of Mount Eden. From there we had the most amazing three hundred and sixty degree views of the city in the glorious sunshine. Looking around us it was hard to comprehend why Auckland hasn't been named the capital city of New Zealand. Having driven through the entire country it really is the only place we've seen that can warrant being called a city of any sort. 

Even so, Nick told us that there's only approximately one million inhabitants in Auckland. This sounds small (and is!) but it's equivalent to a quarter of the country's entire population! We laughed in amazement as we compared this to England which is smaller in land mass but has over sixty million people, eight million of which are crammed into London. That's double the number of people in London alone than in the whole of New Zealand! 

Anyway, from the top of Mount Eden Nick pointed out to us where we were heading next; the beach town, St Helliers. Just a short drive from the city sits a beautiful beach which looks out onto a volcanic island. We stopped there for lunch at a bistro on the corner which was a real treat. Between us we shared lamb, chicken, fish, pizzetta and a beetroot salad which were all incredible and so beautifully presented. I haven't eaten that luxuriously since my media days in London! Somehow we left enough room for dessert and so ordered a round of homemade knickerbocker glories with honeycomb flavouring, or as the Kiwis call it, 'hokey pokey.'

As New Zealand is so famous for its wines it seemed absolutely essential that we visit a winery before we left. Fortunately, Nikki knew all the best ones in the area and took us to a couple for some tastings. The staff were brilliant and taught us the best techniques for testing wines before letting us try all of their favourites. We fell in love with the Pinot Gris as well as (rather surprisingly!) their Port, and so picked up a couple of bottles for later that evening.

On our way back to the house we stopped at a pub on the riverside which puts all those in England to shame. It really is so beautiful here that it's easy to see why our friends have made the move and not looked back. 

As a thank you for their overwhelming kindness over the last month the four of us offered to cook the family dinner on our last night. We attempted to recreate one of the recipes that Hana and I learnt on our Thai cooking course, the infamous massaman curry, and although it wasn't perfect I think it went down well! 

Any mention of being sad to be leaving New Zealand has mostly been met with rolled eyes as our next destination is Fiji - not exactly the worst place in the world to be heading! However, even our excitement to explore the islands can't mask the heartache of leaving such an amazing country that has been nothing but kind to us since the moment we arrived. 

Cyclones & Seals, Christchurch & Kaikoura

We've had a touch of luck in New Zealand. Despite the warnings that it rains as much here as in England (i.e. a lot) we've hardly seen a single drop. Every day we've woken up to brilliant blue skies and have reached for our sunglasses more often that our sweaters. 

Until Christchurch. 

A whole month's worth of rain fell in a single day as Cyclone Lusi hit the city. Fortunately, some friends of friends had lent us their flat for the weekend so we at least had a nice place to cosy up in whilst we hid away from the storm. Also rather fortunate, is the fact that there seems to be very little to do in Christchurch regardless of the weather so we really didn't miss out on too much at all. If I'm honest, after our jam packed few weeks we quite welcomed the excuse to curl up on the sofa with a cup of tea. 

By the time we arrived at our next destination, Kaikoura, the rain had depleted and turned into drizzle. It was still so grey and dismal that we had little hope of it ever clearing up but miraculously the morning brought clear skies. We needed to be on our way by midday but to make the most of what time we had left we set off on a three hour walk along the coastal front. Less than half an hour in, however, my flip flop broke and I was left bare foot. I hobbled along for another hour or so before admitting defeat and turning around. It seems my notoriously ugly feet carry all the same characteristics as a hobbit's but can't handle the same conditions. 

I did at least get to see some seals before I Ieft though which was pretty awesome. The first we spotted was slumped across the pathway, so blatantly in the way but showing no signs of moving. We found another seeking shade below a picnic bench and a whole load more further out on the rocks. They seemed like the happiest animals in the world, lolling around in the sunshine without a care in the world. I almost felt a pang of jealousy, before realising our lives right now aren't so dissimilar. 

From now until we fly to Fiji we'll be travelling back up to Auckland where we started this adventure. Four weeks and more than a few hundred miles later we'll have completed our circuit of this wonderful country. If we could go around again I think we genuinely would!