The Big Island, Ilha Grande

You don't need to be a language whizz to know that 'grande' means 'big' but somehow I didn't put two and two together, so as we approached the island I was a little shocked to see just how 'grande' it really was.

Nevertheless, the moment I felt the sand beneath my feet and glanced back out onto the wide open ocean, it hit me how much I've missed island life. What I'd missed even more, however, were the other girls who had left Paraty a day earlier than my mum and I in search of some cheaper accommodation. Though it had only been twenty-four hours, it was the longest I'd gone without seeing Hana in eight months, and Erica in four, and waking up without them felt outright odd.

After catching up with them over a caiprinhia, we ventured out to familiarise ourselves with our new surroundings. Despite its size, the majority of Ilha Grande has been taken over by a dense rainforest and so the island is inhabited by only a tiny population of people. Most live and work in the town of Abraao but there are lots of other nice areas if you're willing to explore.

We were indeed willing to explore and so boarded a schooner which took us around to the South side of the island. From there, we followed a short trail over the hill and through the trees to Lopes Mendes. It has been voted as one of the top ten beaches in Brazil but if I'm honest, I have no idea how they could possibly choose between them. From what we've seen, they all have pristine sand, bright blue waters and a gorgeous green backdrop of thriving forestry. With the surf as strong as it is at this time of year, we almost found ourselves sitting in the forestry as even at low tide, the water occasionally crept in close. It's little wonder that this beach has not a single bar or restaurant because if any had ever existed, they'd now be drifting out at sea.

On our second morning, I woke up not to the usual crashing of waves, but the sound of hammering rain instead. Though equally as relaxing it was a lot less convenient considering our plans for the day ahead. We'd hoped to take the three hour trek to Dois Reis but even in good conditions, it would have been tricky. Instead we took a shorter trail through the historic village to see the old aqueduct and the prison which was used as a quarantine area in the time of cholera. It was interesting and we didn't even get too wet with the rainforest canopy acting as a giant umbrella!

Luckily the weather had cleared up by the evening and so we enjoyed a lovely last supper along the beach, followed by a round of caiprihnias courtesy of Mumizzari. As always with these super strong cocktails, one glass was enough (or one sip for my mother) and we left feeling merry and ready for our next adventure.  

Pretty Little Paraty

Before leaving São Paulo I had one very special delivery - my mother! She arrived the morning of her birthday so I made my way to the airport armed with balloons, banners and a big bundle of presents (though having not seen her for seven months, I probably could have just tied a ribbon around my head.) I'd genuinely never been happier to see her though and whilst the journey to Paraty was long and windy, it was a great opportunity to catch up on everything we've missed.

Once we finally arrived it felt like my birthday as my mum unpacked a whole load of goodies from home, including Candy King, Hobnobs, Nutella, Galaxy, and some sorely missed Peanut Butter especially for Han. Sadly though, it seemed that's not all she brought with her as we were met by some suspiciously British-like weather in Paraty. 

Luckily, even the gloomy grey skies couldn't mask the charm of this gorgeous little port town with its historic square full of white buildings with brightly coloured finishing. The cobbled paths were challenging to walk on, giving us the perfect excuse to meander along slowly and take it all in.

For a birthday lunch, we found a wonderful little restaurant which was decorated with Latin American art and had a pianist playing live music throughout. Paraty is well known as a hub for the creative arts and our visit coincided with the annual Jazz Festival. 

In the evening, the square was buzzing with street performers lapping up the attention of the fun-loving crowds. We made the mistake of assuming that the best act would be on the main stage so we found ourselves stuck for at least half an hour watching a strange little man who looked identical to Santa Claus but in summer dress. Even after two piña coladas and a super strong caiproska, we failed to be impressed by his attempts to sing or his playing of the teapot. On our way home, however, we passed plenty of buskers and though some were arguably just as bizarre, others truly deserved a place in the spotlight. We'd have liked to have stayed and explored for a little longer but we had a date with a bottle of wine and a birthday cake back at the pousada. 

The following morning it was drizzling with rain so we decided the most sensible thing to do would be to go and get more wet at the Paraty waterfalls. They're rather unique in the way that they haven't fully eroded the earth beneath them and so rather than crashing down a vertical drop, they run down the smooth surface of slanted rock. This not only makes for an interesting waterfall but also creates the most amazing natural water slide! The pool at the end was absolutely freezing but we couldn't resist the temptation of shooting down. Despite the water running slowly, it felt as though we were moving at a hundred miles an hour and though a tad frightening, it was so much fun. Later, we were put to shame by a couple of local kids who launched themselves down performing tricks along the way, from skips, to somersaults, to jumping over one another's heads. Having just struggled with the concept of keeping upright on our bottoms, we were completely astounded as to how they were staying on their feet. It had Brazil's Got Talent written all over it. 

On our final day, we were graced with some sunshine so we made the most of it by having lunch at the beach and wandering through the square to catch our last glimpse of this culturally rich town. However, we had to be careful which route to take as the rain had caused flooding in some areas, creating a little Venice with canals through the streets. 

The small town of Paraty has so much to offer and though we passed down the same roads multiple times, I felt as though each time I did, I noticed something new. People often say that it's full of character and it was one that I thoroughly enjoyed getting to know.

Culture and Chaos, The City of São Paulo

Where to start with São Paulo? We spent three days in the city and I think I changed my opinion on it at least thirteen times but with a place this big, it's really no surprise! 

My immediate impression wasn't the best as for the first time since landing in South America, I didn't feel particularly safe. Though police can be found on every corner, they seem to incite more fear than comfort and on multiple occasions we witnessed them pass by a potentially dangerous situation without stepping in. 

Currently, the city is in a worse state than ever as the people are rioting against hosting the upcoming World Cup. It seemed strange at first that they'd be protesting when so many others would consider it a privilege but having seen the country and spoken to the locals, it's perfectly understandable why they feel that the money should be allocated elsewhere.

The city itself is simply bursting at the seams with over twenty million Brazilians calling it home. However, a heartbreakingly high proportion of this population have no actual home, instead living out on the streets and settling for any sort of surface to lay their heads. The poverty here is blatant and hectic, with swarms of people trying desperately to sell anything they can get there hands on, from socks, to massage toys, to stolen bottles of water. The noise whilst everyone competes to be heard is incredible, and street vendors will literally grab you by the arm to grab your attention. In a way, this chaotic frenzy creates a carnivalesque feel, even if there's seemingly not much to celebrate. 

In the poorest parts, the town is physically crumbling down and there's an overpowering stench of sewage carried in the air. That said, once our senses adjusted, we came to like even the of grimiest of areas. Though the streets were in utter turmoil, it was liberating to lose ourselves among it and in those mad moments, we couldn't help but feel a fondness for those who embrace it every day whilst appreciating our own lives for what they were. 

Shortly after accepting São Paulo to be this crazy place, we stumbled across a much quieter part of the city. We were pleasantly surprised to find some beautiful neighborhoods with both quaint little buildings and modern architecture. We dedicated one whole day to exploring the Art of the city, heading first to the MASP Museum on Paulista Avenue. The exhibition showcased the works of some of the world's best painters, including Monet, Picasso and Matisse, amongst other lesser known but no less impressive Latin American artists.

Later, we swapped the classic for the quirky, seeking out São Paulo's best and most outrageous street art. The Vila Madelena area is particularly interesting with almost as many walls covered in brightly coloured paints as left plain. We visited the famous road, nicknamed Beco do Batman, which was nothing more than a small alleyway before artists re-designed it to be a street art masterpiece, with murals on either side from one end to the next.

On our final day in São Paulo, we climbed the Banespa building for a three hundred and sixty degree view of the city from over a hundred metres high. Of course, we already knew it was big but this view really brought it to life. From our position on the small platform of the Altino Arantes, it felt as though we were staring down into the canopy of a ginormous concrete jungle which stretched further than any of our eyes could see.

Our feelings about São Paulo were therefore mixed but whether we'd liked the city or not, we'd have always had a brilliant time there because of the hostel we stayed in and the people we met. The owner, Erik, was an ex-professional football player turned hip hop artist who raps in a Brazilian punk band and plays the trombone. He also makes an insanely good breakfast and just as we were starting to think he was the coolest guy we'd ever met, we came across David - a doctor from Porto Alegre who is also a qualified hairdresser and make-up artist, as well as an unbelievably good cook. Sadly he was travelling Brazil with his husband (as well as another friend) otherwise I think we'd have snapped him up straight away! Anyway, he completely spoilt us, setting up a hair salon in the front room and treating the whole hostel to an incredible homemade pizza party, complete with caipiroska cocktails and sparkling wine. 

The final member of this little crew was Claudio, another absolute gem of a human being and another bloody brilliant chef. Primarily though he's a philosopher, and he spent his days finishing off his latest book as well as every bottle of wine in sight. Interestingly, his English improved considerably after a glass or five of his special 'Spanish water' so I only hope it has the same effect on his writing. 

There's no doubt that parts of São Paulo are unsafe but for every bad Brazilian, there are hundreds of others like Erik, Claudio, David and co. who will do anything and everything to look out for you and ensure you love their country. And if you're lucky, they'll feed you amazing food whilst they're at it too! 

A Stop Off in Florianopolis

Ever since leaving England I've been buzzing to get to Brazil, enticed by the promise of bustling beaches and a carnivalesque spirit. Our first stop, Florianopolis, didn't disappoint.

This small island is not only encircled by the beautiful blue water of the South Atlantic, it also has three stunning lakes enclosed within it. Two of these sit side by side and the town in which we stayed is built where they meet, making for some pretty picturesque scenery. 

We were spoilt for choice in terms of beaches to visit but my favourite by far was Lagoinha do Leste. Though it's well known as the most beautiful beach on the island, it still feels kind of secret because there's no road leading up to it, meaning it's only accessible by foot. To reach it, you must trek uphill for an hour through jungly terrain and then climb down the rocks for a further half hour. I suppose some people may not consider this journey worthwhile as there are so many other beaches within easier grasp, but then these people presumably have never seen it! It was absolutely worth ever step. 

Having taken a picnic along with us, we had the added reward of lunch after our difficult climb. Though the sun was shining, it was rather gusty and so we ended up eating as much sand as actual food. Only after we'd finished did we discover the small lake behind the bank, completely protected from the wind. 

Florianopolis is a truly beautiful place which is bursting with art and culture and it has been a great start to our time in Brazil. Next we're heading to Sao Paolo, the biggest city in Latin America, and I imagine the complete opposite of this tiny island!

 

Punta del Este & Punta del Diablo

Punta del Este had been described to us as the Ibiza of South America. However, just like Ibiza, it leads a double life, coming alive in the heat of the summer but hibernating in the winter once the temperatures drop and the tourists disappear. Our visit coincided with the Autumn months and so although we found all the signs of a great city, there was literally nobody around to enjoy it. Every other shop was shut and the majority of hotels were closed for refurbishments. 

Thankfully, we were largely distracted from this deserted ghost town by the beautiful beaches along either side of the peninsular. With the sun shining down on us at twenty degrees, had we been at home we'd have called it bikini weather. However, we've come to realise that we've completely climatised and braved the beaches only after throwing on every layer of clothing we could find. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our picnic days and our first views of the Uruguayan seaside. 

Keen to return to some kind of civilisation though, we quickly moved on up the coast to Punta del Diablo. Ironically, this area was even quieter than the last but it's only built to accommodate a tiny community so it felt far less desolate. The small town centre is situated along the main road (which also happens be the only road) and consists of one convenience store, a bus stop and an ATM which stocks cash for just two months of the year. On one side is the beach with beautifully soft white sand and rough waves, whilst on the other side is acres and acres of endless green space. 

The locals have built their homes amidst the fields, seemingly wherever and however they fancy. Mismatched and higgledy-piggledy, these buildings vary from small shacks to pristine villas; some built with old bricks, others with thatched roofs and all coated in a brightly coloured paint which clashes with its neighbour's. The whole area looks as though it's been designed by a child but it certainly gives the place some character. 

One afternoon we caught a bus out to the Santa Theresa National Park, just a few kilometres away. It's absolutely massive and took us over four hours to complete the entire loop. Along our way we encountered all kinds of animals including peacocks, deer, monkeys and some sort of pig which none of us could name. The only other human we saw was a Spanish lady near the fortress who spoke no English and so asking her for directions very nearly got us lost. Luckily, we made it back to the bus stop just before sunset. We didn't fancy roaming around in the wild after dark. 

Our last three hours in Uruguay were spent abandoned on the side of the road at the Brazilian border whilst we waited for a bus which didn't show up until midnight. It was slightly surreal but having just spent ten days in Uruguay, I really wouldn't have expected it to be any other way. We kept ourselves busy, setting an American off on a rant about politics and playing leapfrog until it was time to leave. There are a bits I've loved and bits I could have missed but I'm so glad we experienced this strange little country. 

The Capital of Uruguay

...is Montevideo. I really hope that comes up as a trivia question one day.

However, aside from potentially winning me a pub quiz or two later down the line, Montevideo didn't offer a whole lot else.

With its historical buildings and coastline nearby, the Uruguayan capital is no doubt a beautiful city but unless you're immersed in the buzz of city life, it leaves you with very little to do.

One morning we walked a little way out of the centre in search of the Mercado Agricolo which we believed to be a traditional market. However, when we arrived it was more like an indoor shopping centre and not exactly to our taste. Our experience was practically mirrored the following day when we trekked for almost an hour to find Mercado del Puerto. This time, we found a cluster of restaurants in what appeared to be an old station, all selling barbecued sausages, ribs and steak. They looked delicious but were rather pricey so we settled instead for empanadas. I say settled, but these pastry meat pies are bloody amazing - probably one of my favourite things about South America so far! 

Anyway, after a second unsuccessful market trip we admitted defeat and followed the rambla all the way back to book our bus for the next destination! 

Uncovering the Unknown, Uruguay

I never thought I'd find myself in Uruguay but we had three good reasons for coming here. 

1. It was only an hour's ferry ride from where we were in Buenos Aires.

2. We had some time to fill between our last visitor leaving Argentina and our next visitors meeting us in Brazil.

3. Why on earth not? 

Welcome to the freedom of travelling. The fact that we had no previous plans to come to Uruguay, nor that we knew next to nothing about the country, didn't stop us from jumping on the boat and sailing across. Though it's great to visit popular places (for after all, there's a reason why they became popular) travelling is all about exploring the unknown and finding those hidden gems which few others have yet discovered. 

I believe that Colonia del Sacramento, where the ferry docked, is one of those gems. It's an old colonial town, one of the oldest in Uruguay, and was once occupied by the Portuguese. However, the Spanish continually contested the sovereignty of Colonia and so it changed hands multiple times over the years. Everyone wanted a piece of this town and it's easy to understand why. Not only is it absolutely beautiful but with a positioning so convenient for hopping over to Argentina, it became the perfect port for the smuggling trade.

Nowadays it remains a popular town amongst South Americans but as we're coming into Autumn in Uruguay, it was almost completely deserted. We filled our time wandering through the cobbled streets, kicking up the golden leaves in our pathway and marvelling at the quaint, crumbling, ivy-covered buildings. One afternoon we visited the most photographed street in Uruguay but discovered that it was in fact no more beautiful than every other road in Colonia. They really are all stunning. 

After a couple of days relaxing in this port town we plan to make our way up the coast. Next stop, the capital! 

Buenos Aires & Back Again

The trouble is that when something's been hyped up as much as Buenos Aires was, it leaves a lot of room for disappointment. Sadly during our first trip to the Argentinian capital, disappointment is exactly what we found. 

Though the city is indeed as beautiful as it is bustling, nothing about it particularly wowed me. We'd been told there'd be plenty to keep us entertained but we roamed the streets of Soho, passing very little of interest. 

That evening, as music blared from the hostel bar and crowds of people started drinking at midnight, it became quite apparent why Buenos Aires has made such a name for itself amongst backpackers. The drunken masses set out at an hour we'd usually get in and stumbled back just in time for breakfast. 

The following evening we joined them but despite it being an undeniably good night, it still wasn't enough to win me over. Once we were inside the club we could have been anywhere in the world and I'm looking for a little more from my travels than just going around and getting drunk in different places. I know, grandma alert. 

Anyway, as the city's schoolboy tactics didn't do the trick, we returned to Buenos Aires after our trip to Iguazu Falls with far lower expectations. And this time, absolutely loved it! 

Whereas previously we'd stayed in the centre, our second stint was spent in Palermo, a quieter but quirkier part of town. We were quickly taken in by the charm of the place with its cute little cafés and sweet-smelling bakeries. Though the boutique style shops were rather expensive, the main square hosted a daily market which was always buzzing with locals seeking out a bargain.

One afternoon we took advantage of the sunshine and walked all the way to the Recoleta region to visit the world's most elaborate cemetery. Only the wealthy can afford to be buried here and lie in tombs as large as my house! They're organised into blocks which mirror the layout of the city, creating an eerie village vibe. 

On the Saturday we celebrated Fareed's birthday and bought tickets to the Fuerzabruta show to make it special. This hour long experience is both eccentric and orgasmic (think Cirque du Soleil on drugs) and is by far the weirdest, most wonderful show I've ever seen. I'd love to go into more detail but the mastermind behind it all urges the audience to keep the secret and not ruin the surprises. I'm not sure my words could do it justice anyway but what I will say is that if media doesn't work out, I'll be joining the circus! 

Smiling and inspired, we then stopped off at a burger joint (called Burger Joint) in Palermo on the way home. This quirky little place with its graffitied walls and cardboard cut out menus has been ranked number four in The Huffington Post's list of top burger bars in the world. I get why. 

Finally it was time for some celebratory drinks. We started on the bubbly, then moved onto wine and around the time the vodka was cracked open, Godfrey had come out to play. We'd also bought a special liqueur, flavoured with Argentina's favourite sweet but it was less than enjoyable to drink (even before Fareed pointed out it was the colour of katsu curry) and is likely to have played a big part in our hangovers the next morning. Death by Dulce de Leche...

Fareed's birthday night was also his last in South America so we woke up feeling pretty sad. Before he left, we shared an amazing last supper at a crepe and waffle café in the hope that a mountain of Nutella might help. However, though the food was epic, it still didn't mask the emotional goodbyes. We've loved our little South American foursome and will really miss him now he's gone.

Though it wasn't a case of love at first sight, the city certainly wooed us in the end. Luckily we'll be returning again for a third time and if it weren't for the fact that it will be our very last stop on this round the world trip, I think I'd already be looking forward to it!