The South American Adventure

So here we are almost four months later, back in Buenos Aires having completed a full circle of South America. When we were last here, I was still finding my feet on this strange, new continent and yet now I feel bizarrely at home. Strange, because in a couple of day's time we'll be in our actual homes and there are very few similarities which can be drawn between the two.  

This thought sparked an idea! By comparing England and South America, I can both reflect on my time here and bring this final chapter to a close, highlighting what I've missed about home and what I will miss about South America when I'm finally back on British soil.

#1 English Restaurants vs. South American Street Food

In England we're lucky that we have access to all kinds of cuisines but what we're missing is the option of buying it from a food market. From arepas and tortillas, to tapiocas and buñuelos, the very best South American meals are found on the street. Nothing feels more authentic than sitting cross legged on a cobbled step gobbling down a meal you've seen cooked right in front of you. Though we may have the occasional market in England, it lacks the excitement found at South American food stalls because the meals are priced similarly to nearby restaurants. The beauty of South America's street food is that it's so cheap, you have the freedom to try all kinds of crazy looking dishes which invariably lead to some amazing discoveries. If you don't like a meal, you've lost a couple of pounds at most but the same cannot be said for our London equivalents. It's worth noting that whichever continent you're on, people will often try and warn you away from street food but unless you have a stomach which is lined with flower petals, you'll more than likely be absolutely fine.

#2 English Parties vs. South American Fiestas

I do love good old English nights out but they're a world away from the parties thrown throughout South America. Whereas we like to plan our festivities down to a tee, including which pair of heels will be most appropriate for which club, South Americans just chuck it all together in a spectacularly spontaneous way. Wherever there are people there's potential for a party, whether it be a beach, a city square or a random back street alleyway. Just add some music and the dancing begins! If you were to stop and ask a South American why they're celebrating they'd look at you like you're crazy; 'because we're alive of course!' If you asked the same of a Brit on a night out they'd look at you like you're crazy and down another jägerbomb. 

#3 English Landscapes vs. South American Scenery

South America is massive and so it only makes sense that it has every kind of scenery you could possibly imagine. However, imagining it simply isn't enough and most of it you truly have to see to believe. One country alone can be home to tropical beaches, snow capped mountains, baron deserts and the Amazon rainforest! It's really quite amazing how quickly the scenery can change and no matter how much ground we covered, we never grew bored of simply staring out into South American space. England has some beautiful areas but it lacks the huge variety which makes South America so exciting.

#4 English Solitude vs. South American Smiles 

We English keep ourselves to ourselves. Nobody wants to be that crazy person on the tube who strikes up conversation, even less so the poor soul who has to suffer sitting next to that crazy person. In South America it seems the opposite is true; you'd be mad not to speak to the person next to you. Language barrier? No problem. They'll tease a sentence out of you even if it takes them the entire thirty hour bus journey. As much as they interact with one another, we found locals to be twice as interested in us. They'd offer directions before we even realised we were lost and stop us in the most random places simply to ask where we're from. Initially we had our guards up: all these stories had convinced us that any attempt to speak with us would be some sort of distraction whilst their mate mugged our bags but we soon realised these people have a genuine interest in others around them. And why not? Virtually everyone we spoke to taught us something new and we were continually surprised by the people we'd then choose to return to for a second conversation. 

#5 English Prices vs. South American Pennies

Aside from Brazil and Chile, the countries we visited in South America were dirt cheap. This has obvious benefits but best of all was that it enabled us to try new things that we would never have been able to afford on the same budget in England. For example, we swam with wild dolphins, threw ourselves down a canyon and climbed a 6,000m mountain all for the equivalent of just a few pounds a time. I imagined that dealing with such small figures would devalue the money but quite the contrary! We were ecstatic each time we haggled hard and saved ourselves an almighty sixty pence because that additional sixty pence was not only a couple of coins, but three empanadas, a laundry service or an entire meal at the food market. I'm going to miss how far our money goes and our dedication to making every penny count. 

#6 English Graffiti vs. South American Street Art

Any spritz of colour in an English city is deemed to be vandalism whereas in South America, it is celebrated as art. As a result it's a beautiful and vibrant continent with every blank space a potential canvas for the latest innovative street art masterpiece. Almost every town and city we visited was filled with street murals and interesting, abstract statues, as though the entire area is one big art gallery. I understand there's a fine line between a masterpiece and a monstrosity but I can't help thinking England could do with a little lightening up. If we stopped chasing down every kid with a spray can we might give them time to develop their mindless graffiti into something a little more meaningful.

#7 English Long Journeys vs. South American Never-ending Journeys 

Having done some rough sums we've worked out that during our four months in South America we've spent over four hundred hours on buses. That's about two and a half weeks! The longest stint was our last where we did three overnight journeys in a row, from La Paz to Uyuni, Uyuni to Villazon and Villazon to Buenos Aires - a total of sixty two hours, without including the waiting time inbetween. If we were to drive for this long in England we'd end up half way to Africa! It's hilarious to me now that I used to complain about a one hour journey into London when we can now happily endure a twenty hour bus over various borders. That said, whilst some of the buses were absolutely horrendous, others were very pleasant with fully reclining chairs, in-seat entertainment and three course meals. National Express could learn a lot from Argentinian bus companies!

#8 English Highlands vs. South American Mountains

As much as I love the beautiful South American mountains, they come at a price: altitude! Unless you're content with admiring them from below you'll likely suffer the headaches and breathlessness caused by being so high. Initially we were literally waking up in the night gasping for air and feeling as though we'd run a marathon after climbing a flight of stairs. Though we gradually acclimatised, I never got fully used to living in the clouds and I'm looking forward to feeling full of life again down at ground zero. English countryside can be just as impressive despite not ever exceeding the one thousand metre mark.

#9 English Customer Service vs. South American Sloth Service

South Americans are never in a hurry and their customer service leaves a lot to be desired. It completely baffled us that we could spend twenty minutes queuing to pay for three items at a supermarket, or three hours to do a border crossing that some people have to do every day. Fortunately, as travellers we were rarely pushed for time either and so mostly found their laid back outlook rather refreshing but if I were to actually live here, I think I'd find it far more infuriating. For a nation that love to celebrate life, they spend a hell of a lot of it waiting around for something to happen.

#10 English Health & Safety Madness vs. South American See-What-Happens Mantra

This is always a tricky one. Whilst health and safety regulations are obviously put in place to reduce the likelihood of accidents occurring, when they're applied stringently they simultaneously reduce the likelihood of having any fun. If we'd been following British rules, there's no way we'd have been allowed to share a stream with alligators, walk along an active train track or race head first down a vertical sand slope; all of which were truly awesome. However, had we been eaten, run over or left with broken bones, I imagine they would have been considerably less enjoyable. I'm not sure either continent has the balance completely right here but it was exciting to err on the side of incaution for a little while, and thankfully I've lived to tell tale (touch wood, one day to go!) Where I do definitely side with England though is their approach to hygiene. Though forced to accept a long time ago that filthy squat toilets won't kill me, I nevertheless will be ecstatic to return to western bathroom facilities where the prominent colour is white and toilet roll can actually be thrown into the toilet. 

England and South America really are worlds apart and yet I find myself thinking fondly of both. How is it that I can be happy in two places which are in so many ways direct opposites of one another? Well one thing I've certainly learnt since being away is that nothing is ever black and white in terms of being good or bad, right or wrong, and I think these two places are a great example of that. One is not perfect and the other flawed; they're both just different and both just fine. In fact, more than fine, they're both f*cking fantastic!

I never thought I could love a continent as much as I love Asia but South America has exceeded all my expectations. We spent just shy of four months here but I think even after four years I'd still be left wanting more. I'm almost pleased that there are parts we missed out on because it just means we'll have to return! I've no doubt I'll be back before I know it and I absolutely cannot wait.

One of a Kind, Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro is unlike any other city I have ever seen. Whilst there's nothing unique in its high rise buildings and busy roads, there is something enormously special in the green hills which break up the otherwise sea of concrete and stone. These giant mounds look so out of place and yet they make the place all at the same time. 

My mum and I actually stayed high up on one of the hills in a gorgeous little pousada in Botafogo. Though it was quite the climb, it offered a peaceful haven away from the hectic city streets whilst providing an incredible view out across them.

For the very best views, however, we had to go even higher; 2,300 feet to be exact, to where Christ the Redeemer has shotgunned the top spot. This stone monument is named as one of the Seven Wonders of the World and whilst he's pretty awe-inspiring in terms of his size and stature, the scene he stares down upon is arguably more impressive. We'd chosen a completely clear day for our visit so the conditions were perfect for viewing the breathtaking fusion between the natural and manmade worlds beneath us. It's as though a cosmopolitan city has collided with an exotic Caribbean island and created Rio.

Unable to get enough of this picture, we later caught the cable car up to Rio's second highest view point on Sugar Loaf Hill. We'd planned it carefully so that we reached the top just in time to see the sun set behind the mountains. Shadows soon took over the sky but the landscape beneath it glowed brighter than ever. We stood and watched as thousands of tiny golden lights appeared through the darkness, sparkling as though someone had sprinkled glitter across the city. It was mesmerising that this scene which was so beautiful by day could be even more amazing by night.

The following morning we decided to keep our heads out of the clouds and take a closer look at Rio on ground level. We started at the infamous Copacobana beach which was buzzing with Brazilians and their naked bums. It's a fabulous stretch of sand that seems to emanate happiness though it's difficult to put a finger on why. Perhaps it's the people, who love nothing more than to spend their Saturday basking in the sunshine with an ice cold caipirinha and a handful of friends. It's certainly not a bad way to live.

Once satisfied that Erica had turned a decent shade of pink, we left the beach and made our way to Lapa in search of the Escadaria Selaron. They weren't difficult to find! Covered from top to bottom in brightly coloured painted tiles, this staircase is an artistic masterpiece. Sadly the artist responsible passed away a few years back but even the controversy shrouding his death can't taint the magnificence of his life's work. Through the combination of vibrant colour and sketchy impressionism, Selaron's steps have truly encapsulated the spirit of Brazil and it's just beautiful. 

Despite how hard we tried to ignore it, time had been ticking away for my mum and she was due to fly back to London that evening. We spent the last couple of hours together comfort eating empanadas and reminiscing over what an amazing time we've had. I'm so happy that she got to be a part of this experience and can now see how and why we love what we're doing. For me, it was like having all the home comforts I've missed throughout the year shipped out to me at once. It's true that home really is where the heart is, and for the last eight days mine had relocated to Brazil. 

Not only did I have to say goodbye to my mum, but also the flashpacker lifestyle which had come along with it. Nothing says welcome back to hostel life like an ice cold shower and a crazy girl in our dorm room snorting cocaine. Luckily there was also a round of caipirinhas and a fake bottle of Smirnoff waiting for me downstairs so with the excuse of drowning my sorrows, we got right on it. 

Lapa Square was just a short walk from our hostel and we met plenty of others as merry as us, ordering cocktails from the market stalls and dancing in the street. Whisked away with the crowds, we soon found ourselves in the middle of a dance circle in an underground hip hop club which looked like my garage. The locals were pulling out all the stops to battle it out in the dancefloor, with one guy even getting a unicycle involved. Obviously we had a go and then stumbled back to the hostel before they could play Soulja Boy for a second time. 

Brazil has exceeded all of my expectations and we've only just scratched the surface. It's such a huge country with so much still to explore but I feel like I'm already in love with those people and places I've not yet seen. One day I'll come back to prove that theory but for now it's goodbye Brazil, I'm off to Colombia! 

The Big Island, Ilha Grande

You don't need to be a language whizz to know that 'grande' means 'big' but somehow I didn't put two and two together, so as we approached the island I was a little shocked to see just how 'grande' it really was.

Nevertheless, the moment I felt the sand beneath my feet and glanced back out onto the wide open ocean, it hit me how much I've missed island life. What I'd missed even more, however, were the other girls who had left Paraty a day earlier than my mum and I in search of some cheaper accommodation. Though it had only been twenty-four hours, it was the longest I'd gone without seeing Hana in eight months, and Erica in four, and waking up without them felt outright odd.

After catching up with them over a caiprinhia, we ventured out to familiarise ourselves with our new surroundings. Despite its size, the majority of Ilha Grande has been taken over by a dense rainforest and so the island is inhabited by only a tiny population of people. Most live and work in the town of Abraao but there are lots of other nice areas if you're willing to explore.

We were indeed willing to explore and so boarded a schooner which took us around to the South side of the island. From there, we followed a short trail over the hill and through the trees to Lopes Mendes. It has been voted as one of the top ten beaches in Brazil but if I'm honest, I have no idea how they could possibly choose between them. From what we've seen, they all have pristine sand, bright blue waters and a gorgeous green backdrop of thriving forestry. With the surf as strong as it is at this time of year, we almost found ourselves sitting in the forestry as even at low tide, the water occasionally crept in close. It's little wonder that this beach has not a single bar or restaurant because if any had ever existed, they'd now be drifting out at sea.

On our second morning, I woke up not to the usual crashing of waves, but the sound of hammering rain instead. Though equally as relaxing it was a lot less convenient considering our plans for the day ahead. We'd hoped to take the three hour trek to Dois Reis but even in good conditions, it would have been tricky. Instead we took a shorter trail through the historic village to see the old aqueduct and the prison which was used as a quarantine area in the time of cholera. It was interesting and we didn't even get too wet with the rainforest canopy acting as a giant umbrella!

Luckily the weather had cleared up by the evening and so we enjoyed a lovely last supper along the beach, followed by a round of caiprihnias courtesy of Mumizzari. As always with these super strong cocktails, one glass was enough (or one sip for my mother) and we left feeling merry and ready for our next adventure.  

Pretty Little Paraty

Before leaving São Paulo I had one very special delivery - my mother! She arrived the morning of her birthday so I made my way to the airport armed with balloons, banners and a big bundle of presents (though having not seen her for seven months, I probably could have just tied a ribbon around my head.) I'd genuinely never been happier to see her though and whilst the journey to Paraty was long and windy, it was a great opportunity to catch up on everything we've missed.

Once we finally arrived it felt like my birthday as my mum unpacked a whole load of goodies from home, including Candy King, Hobnobs, Nutella, Galaxy, and some sorely missed Peanut Butter especially for Han. Sadly though, it seemed that's not all she brought with her as we were met by some suspiciously British-like weather in Paraty. 

Luckily, even the gloomy grey skies couldn't mask the charm of this gorgeous little port town with its historic square full of white buildings with brightly coloured finishing. The cobbled paths were challenging to walk on, giving us the perfect excuse to meander along slowly and take it all in.

For a birthday lunch, we found a wonderful little restaurant which was decorated with Latin American art and had a pianist playing live music throughout. Paraty is well known as a hub for the creative arts and our visit coincided with the annual Jazz Festival. 

In the evening, the square was buzzing with street performers lapping up the attention of the fun-loving crowds. We made the mistake of assuming that the best act would be on the main stage so we found ourselves stuck for at least half an hour watching a strange little man who looked identical to Santa Claus but in summer dress. Even after two piña coladas and a super strong caiproska, we failed to be impressed by his attempts to sing or his playing of the teapot. On our way home, however, we passed plenty of buskers and though some were arguably just as bizarre, others truly deserved a place in the spotlight. We'd have liked to have stayed and explored for a little longer but we had a date with a bottle of wine and a birthday cake back at the pousada. 

The following morning it was drizzling with rain so we decided the most sensible thing to do would be to go and get more wet at the Paraty waterfalls. They're rather unique in the way that they haven't fully eroded the earth beneath them and so rather than crashing down a vertical drop, they run down the smooth surface of slanted rock. This not only makes for an interesting waterfall but also creates the most amazing natural water slide! The pool at the end was absolutely freezing but we couldn't resist the temptation of shooting down. Despite the water running slowly, it felt as though we were moving at a hundred miles an hour and though a tad frightening, it was so much fun. Later, we were put to shame by a couple of local kids who launched themselves down performing tricks along the way, from skips, to somersaults, to jumping over one another's heads. Having just struggled with the concept of keeping upright on our bottoms, we were completely astounded as to how they were staying on their feet. It had Brazil's Got Talent written all over it. 

On our final day, we were graced with some sunshine so we made the most of it by having lunch at the beach and wandering through the square to catch our last glimpse of this culturally rich town. However, we had to be careful which route to take as the rain had caused flooding in some areas, creating a little Venice with canals through the streets. 

The small town of Paraty has so much to offer and though we passed down the same roads multiple times, I felt as though each time I did, I noticed something new. People often say that it's full of character and it was one that I thoroughly enjoyed getting to know.

Culture and Chaos, The City of São Paulo

Where to start with São Paulo? We spent three days in the city and I think I changed my opinion on it at least thirteen times but with a place this big, it's really no surprise! 

My immediate impression wasn't the best as for the first time since landing in South America, I didn't feel particularly safe. Though police can be found on every corner, they seem to incite more fear than comfort and on multiple occasions we witnessed them pass by a potentially dangerous situation without stepping in. 

Currently, the city is in a worse state than ever as the people are rioting against hosting the upcoming World Cup. It seemed strange at first that they'd be protesting when so many others would consider it a privilege but having seen the country and spoken to the locals, it's perfectly understandable why they feel that the money should be allocated elsewhere.

The city itself is simply bursting at the seams with over twenty million Brazilians calling it home. However, a heartbreakingly high proportion of this population have no actual home, instead living out on the streets and settling for any sort of surface to lay their heads. The poverty here is blatant and hectic, with swarms of people trying desperately to sell anything they can get there hands on, from socks, to massage toys, to stolen bottles of water. The noise whilst everyone competes to be heard is incredible, and street vendors will literally grab you by the arm to grab your attention. In a way, this chaotic frenzy creates a carnivalesque feel, even if there's seemingly not much to celebrate. 

In the poorest parts, the town is physically crumbling down and there's an overpowering stench of sewage carried in the air. That said, once our senses adjusted, we came to like even the of grimiest of areas. Though the streets were in utter turmoil, it was liberating to lose ourselves among it and in those mad moments, we couldn't help but feel a fondness for those who embrace it every day whilst appreciating our own lives for what they were. 

Shortly after accepting São Paulo to be this crazy place, we stumbled across a much quieter part of the city. We were pleasantly surprised to find some beautiful neighborhoods with both quaint little buildings and modern architecture. We dedicated one whole day to exploring the Art of the city, heading first to the MASP Museum on Paulista Avenue. The exhibition showcased the works of some of the world's best painters, including Monet, Picasso and Matisse, amongst other lesser known but no less impressive Latin American artists.

Later, we swapped the classic for the quirky, seeking out São Paulo's best and most outrageous street art. The Vila Madelena area is particularly interesting with almost as many walls covered in brightly coloured paints as left plain. We visited the famous road, nicknamed Beco do Batman, which was nothing more than a small alleyway before artists re-designed it to be a street art masterpiece, with murals on either side from one end to the next.

On our final day in São Paulo, we climbed the Banespa building for a three hundred and sixty degree view of the city from over a hundred metres high. Of course, we already knew it was big but this view really brought it to life. From our position on the small platform of the Altino Arantes, it felt as though we were staring down into the canopy of a ginormous concrete jungle which stretched further than any of our eyes could see.

Our feelings about São Paulo were therefore mixed but whether we'd liked the city or not, we'd have always had a brilliant time there because of the hostel we stayed in and the people we met. The owner, Erik, was an ex-professional football player turned hip hop artist who raps in a Brazilian punk band and plays the trombone. He also makes an insanely good breakfast and just as we were starting to think he was the coolest guy we'd ever met, we came across David - a doctor from Porto Alegre who is also a qualified hairdresser and make-up artist, as well as an unbelievably good cook. Sadly he was travelling Brazil with his husband (as well as another friend) otherwise I think we'd have snapped him up straight away! Anyway, he completely spoilt us, setting up a hair salon in the front room and treating the whole hostel to an incredible homemade pizza party, complete with caipiroska cocktails and sparkling wine. 

The final member of this little crew was Claudio, another absolute gem of a human being and another bloody brilliant chef. Primarily though he's a philosopher, and he spent his days finishing off his latest book as well as every bottle of wine in sight. Interestingly, his English improved considerably after a glass or five of his special 'Spanish water' so I only hope it has the same effect on his writing. 

There's no doubt that parts of São Paulo are unsafe but for every bad Brazilian, there are hundreds of others like Erik, Claudio, David and co. who will do anything and everything to look out for you and ensure you love their country. And if you're lucky, they'll feed you amazing food whilst they're at it too! 

A Stop Off in Florianopolis

Ever since leaving England I've been buzzing to get to Brazil, enticed by the promise of bustling beaches and a carnivalesque spirit. Our first stop, Florianopolis, didn't disappoint.

This small island is not only encircled by the beautiful blue water of the South Atlantic, it also has three stunning lakes enclosed within it. Two of these sit side by side and the town in which we stayed is built where they meet, making for some pretty picturesque scenery. 

We were spoilt for choice in terms of beaches to visit but my favourite by far was Lagoinha do Leste. Though it's well known as the most beautiful beach on the island, it still feels kind of secret because there's no road leading up to it, meaning it's only accessible by foot. To reach it, you must trek uphill for an hour through jungly terrain and then climb down the rocks for a further half hour. I suppose some people may not consider this journey worthwhile as there are so many other beaches within easier grasp, but then these people presumably have never seen it! It was absolutely worth ever step. 

Having taken a picnic along with us, we had the added reward of lunch after our difficult climb. Though the sun was shining, it was rather gusty and so we ended up eating as much sand as actual food. Only after we'd finished did we discover the small lake behind the bank, completely protected from the wind. 

Florianopolis is a truly beautiful place which is bursting with art and culture and it has been a great start to our time in Brazil. Next we're heading to Sao Paolo, the biggest city in Latin America, and I imagine the complete opposite of this tiny island!

 

Falling for Iguazu Falls

Reflecting back upon our experience at Iguazu Falls is like reliving a rather elaborate dream. The scenes imprinted within my memory are all so vivid and yet they seem to belong to another world, too mesmerising to be a part of this reality...

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The park is almost empty when we arrive and eerily quiet. Following the silence, we pass the visitor's centre and take the green trail through the jungle. Whilst we'd expected to find floods of tourists, we're instead met by a family of coatis, meandering their way across our path. At first glance, these strange racoon-like animals look adorable with their aardvark's snout and bushy tails, which do well to distract the unknowing human from their sharp teeth and menacing claws. We rush past them quickly, taking note but simultaneously trying to ignore the numerous signs warning us of crocodiles, snakes and tarantulas along our way.

On the upper trail we catch our first sight of the waterfalls. Everything about them feels infinite; not only the sheer number of falls, but the endless streams of water appearing from behind the horizon; the constant ripples tipping over the edge, sacrificing themselves to the greater good; the continual crashing of curling water colliding into chaos; and the long lasting echoes booming from cliff to cliff. Breathtaking is an understatement. 

The scene surrounding the falls is no less ethereal. Where the sunlight catches the spray, the white water acts as a blank canvas for the colourful rainbows which appear overhead. Higher still, eagles soar, gliding effortlessly as though humouring those pretty butterflies beneath them, flapping their wings so excitedly; their wings, which are so exotic in colour it seems they can only have been born from the rainbows below. I couldn't have imagined something so beautiful. 

Tearing ourselves away from the viewing terrace we board a small train which takes us up the mountain side. We're now level with the top of the falls but a wide river separates us from them. Though the wind carries with it the faint whispers of crashing water, this is the only telltale sign of the fall's existence. The river water is so still and serene that it's hard to believe what awaits us on the other side. 

More butterflies lead the way as we take the route along the wooden bridge. Though expertly camouflaged, we can just about make out a baby crocodile basking in the sunshine on the rocks to our left. A little further on we find a turtle to our right, marooned on an island no bigger than its shell. A heron spreads its wings to pose for our photographs whilst flashes of colour between rustling leaves expose the hiding place of a toucan's nest. Seriously, what dream is this? 

We're approaching the edge now and what had previously looked like an inviting infinity pool at a luxury hotel resort, now reveals itself as a death defying drop. For ages we do nothing but stare in awe at the power of these falls. The spray rises so high above the water that it obscures our view of the valley beyond. It's as though we're standing at the very edge of the world, gazing out as it fades into nothingness.  

Finally we embark on the lower trail, the third and final one of the day. The park's trails have been cleverly built so that we can view the falls from various different distances and heights. We find they look incredible from every angle and no matter how hard I try telling myself that it's only water, I remain completely mesmerised.

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Though I've done my best to describe Iguazu Falls, it's a wonder that needs to be seen to be believed. Even then, if you're anything like me, you'll have a hard time convincing yourself that what you saw was real. It genuinely is too good to be true, a natural beauty so unnaturally beautiful!