The Australasian Adventure

Three months to the day since we first touched down in Australasia (and exactly six since leaving London) we're back at the airport, this time heading for South America. However, before we begin this third and final chapter I'd like to draw the second to a close by reflecting upon our travels throughout Australia, New Zealand and Fiji. 

Whereas it was relatively easy to summarise Asia as a whole (see 'The Asian Adventure'), the three countries we've visited in Australasia have been so vastly different that it would be impossible to generalise in the same way. Instead, I've chosen ten memorable moments from each which I feel best capture the spirit of our experiences in those places.

Australia...

#1 The moment we arrived in Melbourne wearing Bangkok vests and elephant trousers, all of sudden feeling awfully silly.

#2 The moment we scoffed down our first Aussie BBQ with a family of possums rustling in the tree next to us.

#3 The moment we fell in love with Sydney and decided we'd return to live there one day. 

#4 The moment we were snuggled up on the sofa watching a film with friends, forgetting our backpacks and feeling normal for the day. 

#5 The moment I woke up at sunrise to watch the first light cast over Fraser Island. 

#6 The moment we bathed in Lake Wabby whilst tiny fish nibbled at our feet. 

#7 The moment we realised we were city girls at heart and that desolate beach towns could not keep us entertained. 

#8 The moment we were sung to sleep on a boat by two Essex boys performing 'I'm a Wanderer' on the harmonica.

#9 The moment we woke up on the front deck, surrounded by nothing but ocean in the middle of the Whitsundays.

#10 The many moments we solved a difficult situation with a cup of tea and Tim Tams.

New Zealand...

#1 The moment our sat nav's only instruction was 'In three hundred kilometres, turn left'. 

#2 The moment we witnessed the Lady Geyzer volcano erupt.

#3 The moment we regretted our decision to eat egg salad for lunch at the ever so eggy Wai-O-Tapo Wonderland.

#4 The moment we found our own private jacuzzi in Taupo's natural hot springs.

#5 The moment we trekked past Mount Doom from The Lord of the Rings.

#6 The moment we stopped for lunch beside the glistening Emerald Lakes in the Tongariro National Park.

#7 The moment we spotted bright blue glow worms in the 'fairy forest'. 

#8 The moment we reached the top of Wanaka's Rocky Mountains to see an oil painting view of the lakes.

#9 The moment our Kaikoura coastal path was blocked by seals slumped out on the decking. 

#10 The moment we were welcomed back into the home of Nick and Nikki, our adopted New Zealand parents

Fiji...

#1 The moment we said our first 'bula' and picked a pink flower for our hair. 

#2 The moment we set eyes on the Mamanuca islands, sailing past each tiny paradise.

#3 The moment we arrived on Beachcomber Island and walked the entire circumference in less than ten minutes.

#4 The moment I woke up on my birthday to presents wrapped in banana leaves and a Fijian woman playing 'Happy Birthday' on her guitar.

#5 The moment our long boat met the big ferry out in the ocean in the middle of a storm. 

#6 The moment we spotted a rainbow behind the mountain whilst kayaking through the sea in the rain.

#7 The moment we jumped from the top of the waterfall in the middle of the jungle on the Uprising trek. 

#8 The moment we met the Fijian school children in Navala Village and learnt what they were taught in class.

#9 The moment we sat discussing politics over lunch with our Indian-Fijian taxi driver.

#10 The moment we joined in the locals' late night kava circle and sang along to Boyzone songs played on their guitars.

These are just a small snippet of the memories made during our incredible three months on the continent. I can't wait to some day come back and add to them further but for now, it's goodbye; we're off to Santiago!

Overnight in Auckland

Unsurprisingly there was no direct flight from Fiji to Chile so we had to stop off in New Zealand between. Although this stalled the next part of our adventure it actually worked out very well for us because it meant spending another night with our lovely friends in Auckland.

After a long and emotional journey we were overjoyed to come through the arrivals gates to see Nick and Nikki there waiting for us with open arms. They've looked after us so well since being on this side of the world, like our parents of a parallel universe.

We arrived 'home' early evening and whilst Nikki began preparations for her amazing home-cooked lasagne, Nick lined up wine glasses outside ready for a final 'cheers' at sunset. From their perfect garden viewpoint, it was as stunning as ever and I was so pleased to have had the chance to see it just one last time. 

As it turned out, however, it was not the last time as we found ourselves in the same spot, admiring the same view the very next evening. Our flight to Santiago, which was initially scheduled to leave at four o'clock Sunday afternoon was delayed until the early hours of Monday morning. 

Luckily though we discovered the news as soon as we woke up and so weren't put out at all. In fact, quite the opposite! We had a lovely relaxed morning, ate eggs, bacon and 'stuffy stuff' at the family's favourite cafe down the road and then hit the shops to stock up on last minute New Zealand chocolates. 

Later, Nikki put on a Sunday roast which was the first we've had since leaving England and was just amazing. It certainly beat plane food and by the time we'd finished eating we were half wishing our flight could be delayed a further ten hours. 

Returning to Auckland was the perfect way to end our Australasian adventure and to grasp onto a final few home comforts before backpacking around South America. I can't say I know anybody on that side of the world so I imagine the next time I feel this at home will be when I actually am! 

There and Back Again, New Zealand

I never imagined it would be easy to leave New Zealand but it really has pulled out all the stops in our last couple of days. 

We arrived back to our family friends' (beautiful!) house in Auckland on our penultimate evening and were welcomed in with a cup of tea and a catch up. Whereas when we stayed previously the family were away on holiday, this time they were around and keen to show us their wonderful city. After making plans for our final day we headed to bed early, exhausted from the twelve hour journey.

The next morning we woke to the smell of bacon and hot croissants and quite literally sprung out of bed. After saying an emotional goodbye to our hire vehicle we piled into Nick and Nikki's spare car and met them both at the top of Mount Eden. From there we had the most amazing three hundred and sixty degree views of the city in the glorious sunshine. Looking around us it was hard to comprehend why Auckland hasn't been named the capital city of New Zealand. Having driven through the entire country it really is the only place we've seen that can warrant being called a city of any sort. 

Even so, Nick told us that there's only approximately one million inhabitants in Auckland. This sounds small (and is!) but it's equivalent to a quarter of the country's entire population! We laughed in amazement as we compared this to England which is smaller in land mass but has over sixty million people, eight million of which are crammed into London. That's double the number of people in London alone than in the whole of New Zealand! 

Anyway, from the top of Mount Eden Nick pointed out to us where we were heading next; the beach town, St Helliers. Just a short drive from the city sits a beautiful beach which looks out onto a volcanic island. We stopped there for lunch at a bistro on the corner which was a real treat. Between us we shared lamb, chicken, fish, pizzetta and a beetroot salad which were all incredible and so beautifully presented. I haven't eaten that luxuriously since my media days in London! Somehow we left enough room for dessert and so ordered a round of homemade knickerbocker glories with honeycomb flavouring, or as the Kiwis call it, 'hokey pokey.'

As New Zealand is so famous for its wines it seemed absolutely essential that we visit a winery before we left. Fortunately, Nikki knew all the best ones in the area and took us to a couple for some tastings. The staff were brilliant and taught us the best techniques for testing wines before letting us try all of their favourites. We fell in love with the Pinot Gris as well as (rather surprisingly!) their Port, and so picked up a couple of bottles for later that evening.

On our way back to the house we stopped at a pub on the riverside which puts all those in England to shame. It really is so beautiful here that it's easy to see why our friends have made the move and not looked back. 

As a thank you for their overwhelming kindness over the last month the four of us offered to cook the family dinner on our last night. We attempted to recreate one of the recipes that Hana and I learnt on our Thai cooking course, the infamous massaman curry, and although it wasn't perfect I think it went down well! 

Any mention of being sad to be leaving New Zealand has mostly been met with rolled eyes as our next destination is Fiji - not exactly the worst place in the world to be heading! However, even our excitement to explore the islands can't mask the heartache of leaving such an amazing country that has been nothing but kind to us since the moment we arrived. 

Cyclones & Seals, Christchurch & Kaikoura

We've had a touch of luck in New Zealand. Despite the warnings that it rains as much here as in England (i.e. a lot) we've hardly seen a single drop. Every day we've woken up to brilliant blue skies and have reached for our sunglasses more often that our sweaters. 

Until Christchurch. 

A whole month's worth of rain fell in a single day as Cyclone Lusi hit the city. Fortunately, some friends of friends had lent us their flat for the weekend so we at least had a nice place to cosy up in whilst we hid away from the storm. Also rather fortunate, is the fact that there seems to be very little to do in Christchurch regardless of the weather so we really didn't miss out on too much at all. If I'm honest, after our jam packed few weeks we quite welcomed the excuse to curl up on the sofa with a cup of tea. 

By the time we arrived at our next destination, Kaikoura, the rain had depleted and turned into drizzle. It was still so grey and dismal that we had little hope of it ever clearing up but miraculously the morning brought clear skies. We needed to be on our way by midday but to make the most of what time we had left we set off on a three hour walk along the coastal front. Less than half an hour in, however, my flip flop broke and I was left bare foot. I hobbled along for another hour or so before admitting defeat and turning around. It seems my notoriously ugly feet carry all the same characteristics as a hobbit's but can't handle the same conditions. 

I did at least get to see some seals before I Ieft though which was pretty awesome. The first we spotted was slumped across the pathway, so blatantly in the way but showing no signs of moving. We found another seeking shade below a picnic bench and a whole load more further out on the rocks. They seemed like the happiest animals in the world, lolling around in the sunshine without a care in the world. I almost felt a pang of jealousy, before realising our lives right now aren't so dissimilar. 

From now until we fly to Fiji we'll be travelling back up to Auckland where we started this adventure. Four weeks and more than a few hundred miles later we'll have completed our circuit of this wonderful country. If we could go around again I think we genuinely would! 

Mount Cook & Hooker Valley

Having just come from the World's steepest street we decided it was time we pay a visit to New Zealand's highest peak. At 3,724 metres Mount Cook is no easy climb and a full expedition can take up to six days to complete. 

Unfortunately, with less than a week left in the country we didn't have six days spare to tackle it properly. However, we didn't want to miss it completely and so researched a walk we could manage in one day. The most suitable we found was through Hooker Valley which took us through the mountains and up to Hooker Lake. 

It was a beautiful scenic walk and completely silent but for the occasional rumble of a small avalanche high up in the mountains. When we arrived at the lake we were amazed to find that it was completely silver, rather than the intense blue we've become used to. On closer inspection we realised that what we originally thought to be rocks were in fact huge blocks of ice, sparkling as they reflected the sun's rays.

It was an amazing sight and we couldn't help wondering what else we'd have found had we had the time to continue up to Mount Cook itself. Although it's a shame we couldn't fit it in this trip, it's the perfect excuse to come back one day! 

Downtime in Dunedin

With all the activities we've been cramming in recently what with trekking up mountains, driving for hours each day and sleeping in a different town every other night, it was only a matter of time before our bodies called a time out. Mine gave up on me just as we got to Dunedin. 

Much to my disappointment I stayed behind whilst the others explored the town, checking out the museums and the world renowned Cadbury Land. You know you're ill when you can't get out of bed for chocolate! 

Our accommodation, which we'd found listed on the usual hostel site, was in reality more like a large deserted manor house and although it was quite cute during the day, it creeped the hell out of us at night. Needless to say I was pleased when the others arrived back before dark, particularly as they came bearing edible gifts.

The Cadbury treats obviously did the trick because I woke the next morning feeling a million times better. In fact, I was feeling so sprightly that when the girls announced their plan to visit the steepest street in the world I decided to join them. I hadn't planned to actually climb it but when we arrived I couldn't resist. 

Baldwin Street is approximately 350m long and has a maximum slope of 1.2.86. If, like me, you have no idea what that means (I can only quote the sign) just trust me that it's really, really steep. From the top we got a great look over Dunedin which was handy for me as I'd seen so little of the town. 

Whilst admiring the view we noticed that the same man had now passed us three times, repeatedly walking up the hill and then skipping to the bottom. He looked completely insane but at the same time it looked kind of fun so we gave it a go ourselves on the way down. At the steepest point our skips turned into an unintentional sprint as our little legs raced to keep up with gravity. Soon everyone around us was following suit and the insane skipping man looked very pleased with himself indeed. 

Surprises All Around, Queenstown & Milford Sound

Since being in New Zealand we've done an awful lot of walking so we were pleased to find that our hostel in Queenstown offered free bikes to all of its guests. We used these to explore the town which is most definitely a town, not the city I was expecting - it seems New Zealand cities are exceptionally hard to come by! Nevertheless, Queenstown is an amazingly pretty place with lots of quaint little bars and cafés which all looked so inviting. As well as the standardly incredible views along the lake front, our top discoveries were the Remarkable Sweet Shop, Patagonia Chocolate Cafe and the infamous Fergberger, all of which we returned to the following day.

In an attempt to work off the eight thousand or so calories then consumed we decided to trek up the Tiki Trail. It's a steep track and pretty much follows the line of the cable car but we thought the walk would do us good. At the top we rewarded ourselves with what little remarkable fudge we'd managed to save whilst looking out at the beautiful scenery. For an even better view dozens of people opted to paraglide, soaring overhead as we clambered down.

From Queenstown we drove a few hours West to Milford Lodge where we took the cruise around Milford Sound the next morning. It was listed as one of the 'Must Do's' in the South Island but in all honesty I found it a little disappointing. The boat took us through the narrow stretch of water between the sheer rock faces that make up this famous heritage site. Perhaps it was because it was a misty morning, or because we've just been spoilt by the equally as impressive (and completely free) views we drive through every day, but I struggled to find much enthusiasm for it. The best part for me was stopping to see the baby seals and the free BLT sandwich on board. 

Neither Queenstown nor Milford were quite what I'd imagined though the first exceeded expectations whereas the latter fell short. 

A Home Away from Home, Wanaka

In a beautiful town like Wanaka the last thing I imagined we'd be doing is going to the cinema. However, the particular cinema we found ourselves on our first evening was rather special. The screening room was no bigger than a large lounge and was filled with armchairs of all shapes and sizes. There was even the option of an open roof car to sit in but we slumped into a sofa and snuggled up to our popcorn. 

Half way through the film the screen blanked and the scent of warm cookies filled the room. It was time for the interval and time to stock up on treats! There was homemade ice cream, homemade cookies and homemade pizzas to order, ready to takeaway at the end of the film. It was all very intimate and felt less like a cinema experience and more like watching a movie at a wealthy friend's house who's Mum happened to be an unbelievable cook! 

This same intimacy was reflected elsewhere in Wanaka too. The town is very small with a population of five thousand people and it took just two days for us to feel at home in the area. The lake it's situated by (aptly named Lake Wanaka) is so stunning that it literally took our breath away each morning. 

On our final day we drove a short way to the Rocky Mountains and trekked right to the top until we could see both Lake Wanaka and Diamond Lake. It was a difficult climb but every bit worth it to see the picture perfect view from above. It was so flawless in fact, that we all agreed it felt like we were staring down at an oil painting. 

Wanaka was almost directly on our route to Queenstown from Fox Glacier and I'm really glad we stopped to check it out. My eyes and tastebuds will be forever grateful! 

Trotting Along Fox Glacier

If the North Island was another world, the South Island is a whole other universe.

It was late when our ferry docked at Picton harbour but we could just about make out the silhouettes of a mountain range not too far from the coast. The next morning in the sunshine we were amazed to find that the summits were covered in snow. How could it be warm enough to lie on the beach when there were snow topped mountains within sight? For me this just about sums up New Zealand in that there's absolutely everything here; something to please everyone and lots to please me! 

We spent one night in Nelson to break up the long journey down to Fox Glacier but were there for literally a matter of hours. As we saw so little of the small town my opinion is based entirely upon the hostel we stayed in and as the hostel served free homemade cookies on arrival, I've decided I like Nelson a lot. 

Fox Glacier, however, was even better. It's a tiny resort with a resident population of a few hundred people but it attracts a few thousand more each week because of the glaciers that sit just above it. We helped contribute to that statistic, all four of us embarking on a half day 'Fox Trot' tour on Fox Glacier. Kitted out in our hiking boots, crampons and poles (and about six layers of clothing!) we took to the glacier, hauling ourselves up the slippery staircase carved into the ice. It was another beautiful day and the glacier looked all the better for it as the outer layer of ice glistened in the sunshine like a sheet of sparkling diamonds. We stopped to observe various landmarks along the way such as caves and small water streams that have tunnelled their way through the ice. The views from the top were really impressive but we wished we could have gone on further to where the ice is cleaner, free from the rock stains found in the valley.

The trek was less physically demanding than we'd imagined so in the afternoon we took a long walk around Lake Matheson, one of the South Island's most beautiful lakes. At one particular spot when the water is still it reflects the perfect image of Mount Tasman and Mount Cook which makes for a rather incredible photograph. Once again we were left in awe of such an amazing natural beauty. 

Later that evening we walked again, this time to the forests nearby to our hostel. The sun had only just begun to set leaving us with enough daylight to explore the woodland properly. It was the weirdest and yet most wonderful forest I think I've ever seen, with obscurely angled plants and trees, and a thick layer of moss covering almost every inch. It reminded me very much of the set of 'A Midsummer Night's Dream', a place where fairy folk dwell, too beautiful to be true. As daylight departed darkness fell, broken only by a scattering of spectacular blue lights shining through the shrubbery. With a head full of thoughts of Puck and Titania you'd forgive me for a moment for thinking these could indeed be fairies. If they were to exist anywhere in the world it would be here! However, this here was the work of extraordinary glow worms, decorating the darkness like stars in the night sky.

So far the South Island has lived up to the hype but there's a lot left to come. I can't wait to see what's in store for us next!

Who, What, Where, Wellington?

Here's a quick pop quiz for you: What's the capital city of New Zealand? 

My first guess would have been Auckland, then perhaps Queenstown or Christchurch but nowhere on my list would Wellington have appeared. I think I speak for most people when I say that it's one of those cities that's slipped our radars (Kiwis and Geographers aside.) Having now visited, I'm still not convinced it deserves capital city status but it's a wonderful place nevertheless. 

Luckily we had our very own tour guide whilst there; a boy we'd met in Thailand who was born and raised in Wellington. He took us along the sea front and on into town where we sussed out the best coffee shops and chocolate cafés. Back down by the harbour we found a number of quirky art exhibitions hosted in various sea containers. Each one was as strange as the next but helped give the area a little more character. All around the city in fact we repeatedly came across odd little art pieces. There were wire fences decorated with heart shaped tape and entire walls covered in graffitied murals. Obscure but interesting! 

Wellington was our most Southerly stop on the North Island and was where we caught our ferry from to transfer to the South Island. The boat journey itself was quite something as we sailed down the still waters of the Cook Strait with mountains either side of us, keeping an eye out for albatross and dolphins along the way. New Zealand has so far been so beautiful that we're struggling to believe what people say about the South being better but we're certainly looking forward to finding out! 

Tongariro Trekking: A Non-Hobbit's Tale

It was a misty morning as we started our trek through the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. With the marshlands on our left and Mount Doom on our right, I was beginning to feel like I'd been thrown into the final scene of The Lord of the Rings and it was bloody awesome! My inner geek peaked as the sun burnt through the clouds revealing Middle Earth's most feared volcano in all its glory. The sheer enormity was quite overwhelming and standing in its shadows, I've never felt so small; about the size of a hobbit in fact! 

Though we had no Ring of Power to worry about destroying, we did have our own quest of equal importance: making it to the Emerald Lakes in time for our lunch! And this was no easy task. The initially flat terrain soon right angled into a steep upwards climb, suitably named 'The Devil's Staircase', and once those phased out they were replaced with a dusty rubble which slid beneath us with every step. As we hauled ourselves higher the air became thinner, the wind colder and my flashbacks to Rinjani increasingly vivid.

Once we finally reached the top though we were rewarded with the most breathtaking views. Looking in both directions was like staring down upon two different realms with fierce red craters behind us and glistening green pools ahead; our very own diamonds in the rough. 

The agreed lunch spot was in sight but these little gems were further than they seemed and the pathway went downhill from there, not only literally but figuratively too. We slid and skid as far as we could before collapsing onto our bottoms and tobogganing down with about as much elegance as a herd of orcs. 

The Emerald Lakes were just incredible and we ate our picnic in absolute awe. I couldn't understand how something so beautiful had been kept so secret but the world suddenly seemed like a much better place. We'd have loved to have stayed there all day but still had four hours of walking left ahead of us. 

The next part of the trek was past another volcano, this one very much active and a constant threat. Our guide had told us to turn and run at the first sign of black clouds but having practically skiied down that last rubbly hill, we didn't fancy our chances at running anywhere! Luckily we caught it in a good mood though and it puffed only lightly as we hurried by.

The rest of the way back was completely bizarre as we covered just about every landscape imaginable. One minute we were enclosed in a blossoming forest and the next exposed in a baron terrain. Reflecting upon it is like watching a sequence in a film where different settings are used to represent a long journey. In our case, however, there was no camera trickery to help us along our way and we really did travel a long distance. At the highest point we reached 1,900km and walked a total of 19km in just over 6 hours. It was no Rinjani but we were suitably exhausted for our day's work and felt we deserved the feast prepared back at the hostel, large enough to feed a whole fellowship!