Full Circle in Fiji

After narrowly escaping spending a night in a Single Women's Christian Institute in Lautoka, we found ourselves back in Nadi earlier than expected. At first I was a little apprehensive because we hadn't loved Nadi on our previous visit but it felt like an entirely different place on our return. 

With Easter just around the corner and the island's high season about to begin, the hostels were buzzing with people and excitement. We checked into a great little place on the beachfront and treated ourselves to a happy hour cocktail. In the beautiful light cast by the sunset over the horizon, Nadi beach looked no less like paradise than any of the tiny islands we'd visited along the way. It was the perfect spot to sit and reflect upon all that we'd done and how far we'd come since we'd last been sat there. 

Though only the third largest town in Fiji, Nadi is certainly the most happening and therefore, a great place to use as a base for all our remaining day trips. The first was to Sabeto Mud Pools for a Fijian style 'spa day.' Upon arrival we were given a tour of the various different pools in this peaceful outdoor haven before being introduced to the 'Mud Man' who coated our faces in a thick layer of sludge. The responsibility then lay with us to paint the rest of our bodies which led to some rather interesting designs as we used one another's backs as a blank canvas for our muddy masterpieces. 

Whilst wet, the mud felt incredible against our skin; like a soft and expensive moisturiser rather than clay soil scooped from the ground. When the eventual cracking sensation indicated that the work was complete we were taken to the first of three hot springs to wash off. We found the mud slid off easily and our skin left feeling silky smooth beneath. 

Having now fully adapted to 'Fiji time' we were in no hurry to leave and so bathed for a while in the hot pools, taking in our tranquil surroundings. The backdrop to this beautiful setting was the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, a park which stands before a cluster of hills which Fijians believe to be shaped like a huge man lying on his back. They have wonderful imaginations. 

Our second trip out of Nadi was to Navala, a traditional Fijian village up in the mountains. Though it's not far in terms of distance, the drive took almost three hours because there's no road leading up to it. Luckily we had a cute Indian-Fijian man called Kachi as our driver who chatted away to us the entire journey to pass the time. In fact, when fatigue hit us half way through and we fell a little quiet, he stopped off at the side of the road and snapped us off some sugar cane to suck on - the perfect sugar rush to bring us back to life! 

The village itself was so beautiful, it was almost ethereal. The bamboo built bures with their weaved walls and thatched roofs looked as though they could've been plucked straight from the pages of a fairy tale. Our tour started at the chief's house who granted us an official welcome into the village. His 'sleeping house' was slightly larger than most and at least had a bed but was otherwise completely bare. It's quite amazing how little they live on. 

As we bid him farewell we heard the sound of a bell ring followed by a wave of excitable squeals as  the school children fled their classrooms for lunchtime. A flock of tiny Fijians dressed in smart blue uniform stormed towards us but stopped short as they realised we were not their usual village folk. They really are an adorable bunch and we were pleased to find we had a few little shadows following us back into the school grounds. Slowly but surely they plucked up the courage to speak to us, wanting to know our names, where we came from and most importantly if we had any sweets! It's honestly a good job that I didn't have an inch of space left in my backpack or there would definitely be a Fijian child or two squeezed inside. 

Of course no traditional day in Fiji could end without kava so we were taken back to the chief's house for the small ceremony. Sat cross legged on the bure floor, we watched as the suspicious looking drink was passed around the circle. When it came to our turn we were told to say 'bula', clap three times and then down the drink in one. It tasted like dirt but with a dozen or so villagers all surrounding us, we had no choice but to chug the lot. It was like being a uni fresher all over again! 

Kava's a funny one. It's completely legal but has similar effects to that of marijuana and Fijians absolutely swear by it. After just one cup we were feeling pretty spaced out and it suddenly made perfect sense why everything in Fiji is so incredibly slow.

On our final day in Nadi we woke up to find that the Yasawas Rugby team were staying at our hostel. Over breakfast they told us that they were competing in the National Sevens Tournament and asked if we would come along to support. The cheerleaders within us just couldn't say no so we ditched our initial sunbathing plans to go along and watch. Fijians take rugby very seriously and it was fun to be a part of the action.

After stocking up on a final stash of Indian sweets we went back to pack and get ready for our 'final supper' altogether. Reminiscing on the last three weeks it became quite apparent how much we've all fallen in love with Fiji. Having covered six different islands and travelled the full circuit around the mainland, we truly feel as though we've done Fiji perfectly and I wouldn't change any of it for the world. Though it's now time to leave this beautiful island behind us I'll be carrying 'bula' with me wherever I go. 

Back to the Islands, Nananu-I-Ra

There's something so exciting about gliding between islands, not knowing which is to be your next destination. With the long boats zig-zagging in all directions to avoid shallow reefs, there's often really no way of telling where you're heading. 

This time we were even more excited than usual because we thought once we'd returned to the mainland that we'd seen the last of our Fijian islands. However, whilst touring around it we caught wind of the fact there's islands on the North and West side which are far less touristy but no less beautiful. 

There were hundreds of islands to choose from but we settled on Nananu-I-Ra in the North, partly because it was one of the closest to the mainland and partly because we just liked saying it. That's one thing I'll definitely miss about Fiji; all its wonderfully named places. Where else in the world will you find a Wayalailai, a Rakiraki and a Nananu? 

Anyway, as we pulled up to our island and the faint sounds of exotic birds replaced the usual blaring Bula song it was immediately apparent that this was indeed less touristy. A resort was nowhere to be seen, just a small reception, an even smaller bar and our averagely sized room at the top of a really steep hill. And of course a stunningly beautiful beach! 

Whereas by the end of our island hopping trip we'd become a little tired of simply lying on a beach, after almost a week of trekking around the mainland we were ready to appreciate it again. Even more so because Nananu seemed so much more authentic, the closest we've felt to being on a deserted castaway island. The power supply cut out every time the wind dropped and the population of frogs more than tripled that of the people. 

One evening it turned a little cloudy which worried us slightly as deserted island activities rely heavily on sunshine. However, it lasted only a couple of hours and brought along with it the most beautiful rainbow which stood proudly in the sky, fading into the water. If there was a pot of gold at the end of it it would have been lost to the depths of the ocean.

On our last morning on Nananu it really hit us that our time in Fiji is almost up and we have no idea when we'll next find ourselves on a tropical paradise island. It's an uneasy feeling to say the least!  

One Big Happy Family, Suva

Fiji feels like one big family where everyone knows everyone and even those that don't, act as though they do. Small children sit on strangers' laps on the bus and hostel owners will welcome in taxi drivers for dinner regardless of whether they've met previously or not. 

Of course we stick out a little from the Fijian crowds but we're nevertheless treated in much the same way. The people we've met have been so kind and a couple of the places we've stayed in now have just been family homes with an extra bedroom or two.  

We weren't sure whether this kindness would extend to Suva, Fiji's capital, because we've all witnessed multiple times the difference between cities and their suburbs. However, we hardly noticed we were in a city at all. Despite being the capital, Suva is still pretty tiny and incredibly quiet. The few shops and restaurants there all close before nightfall and the only busy parts of town seem to be the food market at the centre and the bus station as people commute in and out. 

We stayed in central Suva for one night and then made our way further inland to a little lodge which was so remote it made the first seem almost urban. This place was beautiful though, situated right beside the famous forest park which we'd heard had some amazing walks. We ate a light lunch looking out over the lily pond and then headed straight there.

The forest was enchanting and we wandered through it in awe, ducking under swooping vines and skipping over stepping stones in small streams along the way. Deep in the heart of it we found a collection of natural pools with adjoining waterfalls trickling down the shallow valleys. Children were playing in the pools at the bottom and I felt a pang of jealousy as we watched them splash around in the water without a care in the world. I know how crazy that must sound considering how much we grew up with that these kids could never dream of but nevertheless, they just looked so happy. 

Happiness is certainly a common theme around Fiji and so far we've found very little reason for it not to be. 

Finding the Real Fiji, Uprising Trek

It's taken us almost two weeks but we've finally found the real Fiji. 

From Pacific Harbour we joined the Uprising Trek through the 'bush' and within minutes found ourselves knee deep in mud. Whereas there'd once been a wooden path we saw only its remains, the rest having been swallowed up by the swamps or smashed by the floods. Luckily our group was led by three Fijian guides who advised us where to step to avoid going the same way. 

With the Fijians focusing on our feet we could afford to look further afield and take in our amazing surroundings. We were completely immersed within the jungle but through the small gaps in the giant banana leaves and twisted vines, we could see way out over the island which was just beautiful. 

The trek was heading for the waterfalls deep in the forest but before we could get there we had to cross six rivers and one swamp. There were no bridges to speak of so we hoisted our bags up high and waded through. For reasons unbeknownst to me (I decided I'd rather not know) we were told to keep our shoes on in the water so our feet were squelching with every step thereafter. I imagine for some people this would be their worst nightmare but as we watched everyone slipping and sliding around in the mud, with the occasional person disappearing into it entirely, it was quite impossible not to smile. The whole group was in high spirits in fact as our guides led sing-a-longs and showed us how to make crowns from leaves so that we could all be kings and queens of the jungle. 

An hour or so later we reached the waterfalls and dived straight into the pool at the bottom to try and clean off. Then we headed up to the top! The highest tier led into a deep pool so that we were able to jump from the edge down into the water. It was a really long drop but Hana and I braved the fall twice; once to get over the fear and a second time to actually enjoy it! It was amazing; a natural playground hidden in the depths of the forest and we absolutely loved it. 

The return trek was slightly shorter as a boat met us at the river and took us all the way back down to the beach near Pacific Harbour. Strangely enough the Pacific Harbour complex itself was one of the most touristy places we've seen on the mainland but you only need venture a little way out to lose yourself entirely to the real Fiji experience. 

Back to Backpacking, Sigatoka

Checking into our hostel in Sigatoka, there was no mistaking it; the holiday was over. After weeks of treating ourselves to fancy resorts we all knew it was time we came back down to earth but we weren't expecting such a ginormous thud. 

Our dorm room at Vakaviti was little more than a wooden shed with a sloped floor and a hole for a shower. The ceiling was crumbling in every corner and the fan was so battered that it was barely usable. For the first time since they left we were almost glad the boys were no longer with us; one look at this place and Stuart would have had a heart attack. 

Luckily though we managed to see the funny side and as the hostel owners were so lovely we even ended up agreeing to an extra night. Nevertheless, we were still keen to spend as little time as possible in our shed so we left for town early that first morning.

The centre of Sigatoka was bustling with people, though every single one of them Fijian. Unlike the islands, mainland Fiji isn't catered for tourists and so we finally caught a glimpse of what their lives are really like. Although it's slightly more Westernised it felt in many way like we'd been thrown straight back into Asia which, if you've been following this blog from the beginning you'll know, is an absolute dream come true! We even found roti and Indian sweets at the local market which we've been craving since we left Malaysia five months ago. 

After lunch we found a sweet little taxi man who agreed to take us to the sand dunes for a couple of dollars each. We were dropped off at the bottom of a sandy slope which was so steep we couldn't see anything beyond. He promised that the views from over the hill were worth the climb and despite my initial doubts as the sand blistered our feet in the midday sun, the little man didn't let us down. From the top we were literally surrounded by beauty and found ourselves twirling just to take it all in; a canopy of palm trees behind us, bright white sand dunes either side, and the ocean up ahead, glistening in the sunshine. 

From the higher ground we could see out for miles but there wasn't another soul in sight and the only sounds were those of the crashing waves at the beach beneath us. For a moment it felt like we had the whole of Fiji for ourselves and it was really quite wonderful. 

Coralview Comedown

A paradise island should be the most relaxing place on earth but somehow it's been shattering. Once the boys had left, the late nights of the last ten days caught up with us and we were all on a bit of a comedown. Though we picked ourselves up for long enough to reach Coralview Island, as soon as we arrived we dropped straight back down into a hammock and didn't move for almost two days. 

As Coralview was our last island before heading back to the mainland we felt we were fully justified in making the most of island life and doing very, very little. On our final evening, however, we felt the need to exert ourselves and so followed the hiking trail up the hill for sunset. It seems not many others managed even that though as the pathway was completely overgrown and we had to fight our way through tall reeds to reach the top. Our reward once we got there was the most amazing views over Coralview and the surrounding islands, and a cheerful Fijian man who set the mood, playing old school love tunes from his shabby looking Nokia phone. 

Our island hopping adventure has been nothing short of perfect but it's been more of a luxurious holiday than backpacker travelling. We all feel it's now time to get back to the mainland where there are no five star resorts, nor porters to carry our bags, but a whole load of traditional Fijian culture to discover. I think I may even put some shoes on for the occasion. 

Poetry in Paradise

I've always loved writing but sadly my hectic lifestyle back home often stood in the way of me picking up a pen and scribbling. Taking a year out to travel has given me both the time and the subject matters to develop this passion further and I've found myself writing not only this blog but short stories and poems too. Some I've written for friends, others just for fun and one is even being published in the SEA Backpacker Magazine next month. 

Anyway, it was becoming addictive and before long the others wanted in on the action - cue the poetry off in Fiji. Though it started as a joke the results were kind of awesome so I thought I'd share them on here. There's a few 'had to be there' jokes thrown around in some but the majority should make sense to all. 

*

Fiji Time - by Chiara 

This short story,

All began,

With just two travellers,

Chiara and Han,

They packed in their jobs,

Said 'see ya' to friends,

And escaped to Asia,

Where fun never ends. 

They posted their updates,

And pictures online,

Of beaches and palm trees, 

And blazing sunshine.

Then Jodie and Eric, 

After seeing all this,

Realised that it was

Too good to miss.

They booked their tickets,

And flew out to Asia, 

First Java, then Bali, 

Then back to Malaysia. 

Meanwhile the first two,

Had jet off again, 

Bought tickets to Aus,

And jumped on a plane. 

In Melbs they met Vicky, 

Who knew they were poor, 

So let them both sleep,

On her bedroom floor.

Throughout the week,

They sewed the seed,

And before they knew it,

It was all agreed.

She'd meet them in Fiji,

With the rest of the crew, 

Which was now up to five,

No longer just two.

And how could we forget? 

Our good friend Kate,

Far away in London,

But planning escape. 

She passed her exams,

With a huge pay-rise,

So of course she'd join us,

In paradise! 

But still there was more,

To add to the clan, 

Three boys to complete,

The Fiji fam. 

They met them in Sydney,

Stu, Will and Jack,

And once they'd met them,

There was no going back.

Within a few hours,

They'd booked flights too,

All except,

Our poor little Drew.

We're yet to see,

How well he'll survive,

Without Daddy Stuart,

And the money supplies. 

But he's staying behind,

Back in Balmain town,

Just doing his best, 

Not to burn the place down.

Whilst the rest are here,

In Fiji, Nadi, 

Joining the girls,

For one big 'pardy'. 

So that is how,

The two became nine,

Now we're off to enjoy,

Some Fiji time! 

*

Fiji, Fiji - by Stuart 

Fiji Fiji, we are finally here,

A moment I have been anticipating for almost a year.

The islands are charming, so nice to see,

We are here with our travelling family.

The weather is hot and the beers are cold,

I want to live here until I get old.

Here we are hopping from place to place,

All the fun to come - watch this space!

Many moments to cherish and good times to come,

Making the most of being so young.

The sea is pure and as clear as day,

We are living life the Fiji way.

It will be very sad when we have to go,

On The boat journey home I will feel so low.

(Although Europe is a go)

*

Fiji Birthday - by Hana 

Banana trees 

Coconut shells

Pink flowers

Summer smells

Nine people

All together

Blue sea 

And perfect weather

Cute and small

Getting burnt

Her names Veronica

Why hasn't she learnt?

Sleepless nights

Early rises

Happy faces

Stuart wises

Glowing tans

Beaming sun

The boy called Jack

Always having fun 

Cracking jokes

Sleeping late

William whiteman

Is everyone's mate

Writing poems

Pretty dresses

Chiara Pelizzari 

Has no stresses 

Jodie mckane

Dogs and fish

To see every animal

Is her wish

Organised suitcase

Efficient packing

Bikini bodies

Kate's not been slacking

Bites on legs

Vicky comber

Witty remarks

This poems over.

*

The poetry trend was in fact started by my Nan who sent me the cutest poem over Christmas and New Year and has continued to email her updates in verse ever since. So thank you to her, our biggest inspiration!

Sad Day on Mantaray

The morning we left for Mantaray Island the weather reflected our mood; sunshine for the most part but with dark clouds looming, as the end of the boys' trip drew worryingly near.

However, by the time we'd loaded our bags onto the small fisherman's boat it had turned into a fully fledged storm. As usual we met the ferry out in the middle of the ocean but what was normally a relatively easy transfer was made near impossible as the rain hammered down on us and the small boat was thrown from side to side. With all my worldly possessions on board I wasn't sure whether to prioritise myself or my backpack - though the latter is replaceable it definitely can't swim. 

One by one we tried to hop across but as the waves grew taller the small boat was forced to retreat with Stuart and I still on board. I felt like we were playing out a scene from a movie and just hoped that like most, there'd be a happy ending! 

The situation improved slightly on the journey over but even once we reached Mantaray it still wasn't great. Luckily, as it was our last night all together we'd decided to splash out on some nicer rooms (though some nicer than others) and so relaxed in those for the afternoon. 

The food on the resort was amazing and we ate our last supper at the hilltop restaurant with great views out across the island. It was the boys' intention to go out with a bang so drinks started early; Mai Tais, Long Islands and the last few drops of Jack's Wild Turkey. A few hundred dollars of a bar tab later we were all well on our way but whilst we should have made our way to bed, instead we found our way to the beach. Every single one of us piled into the same hammock and took it in turns to wrestle each other to the ground. 

The next morning we woke up with sore heads and sad faces as the time had come for the boys to return to Sydney. We've all loved having them here and haven't stopped laughing for ten days straight. The worst part now is not knowing when we'll see them but with a few plans already in the pipeline we're just waiting for someone to book it on a whim again.

One Night in Wayalailai

As pretty as it's name, Wayalailai Island is a tropical haven with a small beach which backs onto a thriving rainforest. We stayed at Naqalia Lodge which was very basic, a family run place with limited electricity and no ceiling fans. On the plus side though it was a truly personal experience with the family adopting us as their own for the one night we were there.

The intimacy of it all was helped by the fact that once again we were practically the only people on the island. During the day we had the beach to ourselves and had first dibs on all the activities offered by the family. 

After lunch Kate and I joined 'Grandma' for a jewellery making session, stringing shells and beads together to form bracelets. Before long her real granddaughter had crawled onto her lap and helped us to pick out the prettiest gems. Later we challenged the staff to a kayaking race which ended as expected, although we may have had more of a chance had Stuart and I not sunk our boat. 

In the evening most of the group hiked up a hill for sunset but Han and I stayed behind for a solo kayaking trip. This one was considerably more successful as the sea had calmed and we both comfortably fit into one kayak. With the summit in sight we called out the names of our friends, hoping our echoes would reach their ears. Paddling all the way to the next beach, we took a moment to appreciate our stunning surroundings. There we were, gliding over brightly coloured coral which was completely visible through the crystal clear water. 

On the way back, however, it began to spit with rain and the world turned grey bar the beautiful rainbow which appeared behind the mountain. Being so far from the shore we should perhaps have been worried but the gentle pattering sounds of the rain on the water was surprisingly relaxing. We reached our room just as the storm really kicked in.

After dinner we were treated to a traditional Fijian dance performance which involved a degree of audience participation. The islanders assured us that if we danced hard enough the sun would come out the next day so we allowed them to twirl us around and teach us the 'Bula Dance.' Most of us were mortified but in hindsight it was fun. 

We feel as though we covered everything there is to do in Wayalailai in just one day so we're moving on again now, this time to Mantaray! 

Beachcomber Birthday Bash

Everyone deserves a treat on their birthday but this year I was utterly spoilt. The biggest present by far was spending it on the beautiful Beachcomber Island which ironically is rather small. Within ten minutes of arriving we'd checked into our rooms and walked the entire circumference of the island; a minuscule dot of sand in the middle of the wide ocean. 

As the island was so remote myself and Kate (who shares my birthday) weren't expecting much in terms of celebrations. It wasn't as though anyone could just pop to the shop for us and buy a cake and candles. But where there's a will there's a way! 

On the morning of our birthday, we were woken up and taken down to the beach for breakfast where the girls had tied coloured balloons to all of the palm trees. The islanders had helped them out by showing them how to wrap our gifts using giant banana leaves and flowers for decoration. They looked so beautiful that we were reluctant to open them but there were even more wonderful things hidden inside.

Whilst we ate our feast of a breakfast  (having somehow ordered more plates of pancakes than there were people) a Fijian lady came by to sing to us on her guitar. It was the traditional Happy Birthday song but with a Beachcomber twist. 

As the sun was so hot we spent most of the morning submerged in the sea, moving only to add more ice-creams to Stuart's tab. It cooled a little after lunch and so we played a round of crazy golf on the small course in the centre of the island. None of us are exactly pros but it was made even more difficult by the suspiciously uneven greens and the club which fell apart each time we hit the ball too hard. It didn't add much to our score sheets but definitely added to the humour. 

Later we tried our hands at volleyball but soon found we were equally as bad at that and had no crappy equipment to blame. Fortunately the islanders took pity on us and came to our rescue, teaching us their tactics and playing alongside. The game finished just as the sun had started to set so we grabbed a cocktail each and watched the sky transform. It amazes me that we've seen so many and yet it still melts my heart every time. 

In high season Beachcomber is Fiji's party island but with less than fifteen other guests there it was a rather intimate affair. It felt instead like our own private island and that's exactly how we treated it. After a few drinks and some Fijian birthday cupcakes we were running up and down the beach playing old school playground games until the early hours of the morning. We got so into it in fact that Will started tripping out from fatigue and had to lie down. 

Exhausted but not quite ready to sleep, we ended the night with a group star gazing session. Not only were there millions of sparkling lights scattered across the sky but if we looked closely enough we could make out the Milky Way. It was really quite spectacular and not for the first time that night I acknowledged just how lucky I was. 

As our cake had come without candles I'd yet to make a birthday wish so as shooting stars fell from the sky I considered wishing on those instead. But really, what could I possibly have wished for? In that moment life was just perfect and I couldn't have asked for a better birthday or better friends on both sides of the world.