I couldn't hide the smile from my face as we climbed off the boat and waded through the water to the shores of Gili T. Throughout our trip around the world, this tiny island was one of my favourite stops. It was where we'd first found paradise and fallen in love with the Asian way of life.
A lot has changed in the eighteen months since I was here last. Firstly, I now have a job and so whereas previously we'd stayed in the cheapest huts we could find, we now upgraded ourselves significantly to a beautiful resort on the other side of the island. Though undeniably one of the most expensive around, it still cost us no more than we'd pay for a Travelodge back home.
But there were other changes too that I'd noticed on our way down. The island was far busier with twice the amount of tourists and triple the number of bars, cafes and hostels to accommodate them. And with construction work taking place in every corner, it showed no signs of slowing down.
That said, it remains an incredibly idyllic island. The crystal clear water fades into a colour so blue that it's almost green and the islanders keep their sand absolutely pristine. It makes the beaches of Bali seem average in comparison!
Also, as our resort was tucked away from the mayhem of the backpacker quarters, we were still able to appreciate the deserted beaches and the peace and quiet the whole island once enjoyed. That is, when we could tear ourselves away from the pool!
Though tempting to spend the whole three days right there, I knew there were other hidden gems worth exploring. Therefore, early on our first morning we hired bikes and cycled the entirety of the island. It's so small that it took us little more than an hour, despite having to abandon the pedalling and push our bikes through the majority of the sand patches. In the intense heat it was rather hard work and so felt we more than deserved a cocktail over lunch.
As the sun began to lower in the sky, we crossed the small path from our pool to the private beach for sunset. Flocks of tourists joined us as it just so happens this is the optimum place for a sunset view but no crowd could distract me from the beauty of this spectacle. The cluster of hazy clouds which loomed above the peaks of Lombok's mountain range turned fuchsia as the sun illuminated them from below. Soon, the whole scene was pink with streaks of orange and purple hung like decorative steamers in the sky. It was insanely stunning and we stayed long after the glowing sun had disappeared, watching as the colours changed with every minute.
Once it all turned to black we got back on our bikes and cycled to Scallywags, arguably the most talked about restaurant on any of the three Gili's. I'd not been able to afford it during my last trip but was very much looking forward to making up for it this time around! We found a table out on the decking and checked out the fresh seafood sizzling on the barbecue. In the end I ordered traditional Indonesian Gado Gado which tasted similar to satay (which is always unreal!)
A few cocktails down, we then went onto a bar which is now run by the German guys who Hana and I met last year. It's crazy to think how much we've done since then whilst they've stayed here to live out their lives on Gili T but I can't say I blame them. There are certainly worse places to call home! Anyway it was a little surreal but so nice to see them and though it wasn't particularly busy, the music was great so we stayed for a few. And then a few more. Getting back on our bicycles, I regretted agreeing to the 'local' vodka option.
Our final day on Gili T followed a similar pattern of pool, beach and great food. However, between sunset and our last supper we checked into the hotel spa for a Balinese massage. Stephanie was led off in one direction whilst Kate and I were shown to a shared room, complete with a rather romantic looking bath. It was clearly made out for couples but as our masseurs turned out to both be men, I was more than happy to have Kate beside me as back up.
Once I'd relaxed, the fully body massage was heavenly. He covered everything from my toes to my temples, taking a full hour to work his way up.
'Uh one question - did he massage your boobs?'
Kate's voice snapped me out of my trance and we burst into a fit of giggles as I realised we were alone again. They're not kidding when they call it full body.
Feeling totally zen and only a tiny bit violated, we then left to find Stephanie who was already back at the bar downing a Bintang. She'd had a considerably worse experience which consisted of her having to explain to the masseuse what a massage was which may have been successful had he spoken English or she, Balinese. As with all things in Asia, spa experiences are rather hit and miss and unfortunately for Stephanie hers had failed to fire a shot.
Needing a treat to get over her treatment, we splashed out on dinner at the hotel which for me, consisted of chicken satay served on sizzling hot stones. Dreamy.
It was an emotional goodbye to the Gili's this time, knowing that I'm unlikely to return. Whilst the others waited for our boat back to the mainland I went for one last walk up and down the beach, taking in the last sights of this beautiful island and doing my best to commit them to memory. I may not ever find myself there again physically but I'll continue to return to it as my happy place.
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