Showing posts with label Cusco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cusco. Show all posts

Friday, 18 July 2014

A Cooking Class in Cusco

With only a few weeks left in South America, the time had come to move on from Peru but we weren't yet ready to leave Peruvian food behind. Therefore, on our last day in Cusco Hana and I enrolled onto a cooking course so that we could recreate the magic, even when we're back home in our own kitchens ten thousand miles away.

The menu of the day consisted of crema de quinoa, chillis rellentas and fondue de chocolate y frutta, accompanied of course with a pisco sour. Such an epic feast required a number of ingredients so we began our day with a visit to the local market. Whilst there the head chef stopped at various stalls and picked up all sorts of exotic fruits for us to try. I wish we'd known sooner what we've been missing out on! One in particular, called chirimoyo, caught my attention. Whilst it took the shape of a deformed apple, it tasted like a juicy candy floss; simultaneously refreshing and sweet!

Other parts of the market weren't so pleasant. Though it was interesting to see the local stalls versus the tourist ones, I could have done without witnessing pigs being sliced open in the aisles, chicken feet poking out at all angles, and cows heads with their teeth still intact stacked up on display. It was almost enough to put us off our impending meal!

Almost, but not quite. Back in the kitchen we were raring to go and got started right away with the preparations. Here's how it went...

Crema de Quinoa: 

250g ground quinoa
1 clove garlic
1/2 onion
 250g diced beef
1 egg
1 spoon coriander
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp pepper
Salt to taste

Step 1 - Finely dice garlic and onion and place into an oiled pan. Add 1/4 tsp of cumin and the same again of pepper.

Step 2 - Fry the diced beef until its dry. Add more oil and repeat until meat is light brown. Then add one cup of water per person.

Step 3 - Grind the quinoa and add the flour to the mixture. Stir it altogether until thick and creamy. 

Step 4 - Sprinkle with coriander as a finishing touch.

Chillis Rellentas: 

 2 big chillis
300g minced beef
3 cloves of garlic
1/2 tsp cumin
1 spoon ground chilli
1 medium onion
2 carrots
50g peas
20 peanuts
1 hard boiled egg or olives
60g cheese
1 fresh egg
4 tbsp spoons oil
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp pepper
 Salt to taste

Step 1 - Slice the head off each chilli and remove any seeds and veins. This makes room for the stuffing but more importantly, reduces the otherwise insane spice.

Step 2 - Place the chillis and their hats into a pan and leave to boil for 7-10 minutes. Drain the water and repeat this a further two times.

Step 3 - Meanwhile, finely dice the garlic, carrots and onions.

Step 4 - Crush yellow chilli and peanuts in two separate bowls and grind into pastes.

Step 5 - Put 4 tbsp of vegetable oil into a pan and add the garlic. Next  add a tsp of cumin followed by a sprinkling of pepper, and then the chilli paste.

Step 6 - Once mixed together, add the onions and stir until clear and soft. Then add the minced beef and mix in thoroughly. Throw in the diced carrots and peas and cover it all in water.

Step 7 - Finally, add the peanut paste and leave to simmer for 15-20 minutes.

Step 8 - Add two teaspoons of salt and take mixture off the heat.

 Step 9 - Oil a tray and place the chillis onto it.

Step 10 - Hardboil eggs or use olives to slice and place in the bottom of the chillis. Then fill the rest of the chilli with the mixture.

Step 11 - Place a slice of mature cheese between the chilli and its hat.

 Step 12 - Whisk one egg white, add the yolk and a pinch of salt and continue whisking. When ready, drizzle the egg over the chilli hats.

Step 13 - Place the tray into the oven and bake on high (approximately 240 degrees) for 15 minutes.

Fondue de Chocolate y Frutta 

200g dark chocolate
1/4 cup milk
Fruit of your choice

Step 1 - Slice your chosen fruit (we used pepino and banana but any will work) and spear them onto a kebab stick.

 Step 2 - Break up dark chocolate into small pieces and place them in a bowl over a pan of boiling water. Once melted, add the milk and mix in.

 Step 3 - Pour into an ice cream bowl and serve with fruit on the side.

 Pisco Sour

3 ounces pisco
1 ounce lime juice
1 ounce bar syrup
1 egg white
6 ice cubes
3-4 drops of angostora bitter

Step 1 - Pour a triple measure of pisco, into a cocktail shaker.

Step 2 - Add 25ml of lime juice and 25ml of bar syrup.

Step 3 - Throw in six ice cubes and secure the lid.

Step 4 - Shake for 2 minutes or until the ice cubes sound broken.

Step 5 - Pour into glass and add 3-4 drops of angostora bitter.

Step 6 - Try not to down it in one.

The pisco sours went down so well, I'd nearly finished mine before the starters had even been served. However, once the quinoa soup arrived, I was quickly distracted by how delicious it was. If I were to cook it again I think I'd leave out the beef as the soup itself was thick and creamy, making it filling enough without the additional meat. In fact, I had to force myself not to finish it so that I still had some room left for the rest of the meal.

Our main course was presented so beautifully, it almost looked too good to eat. The chillis were accompanied by a variety of different potatoes; regular, black, white and roka, just four of the four thousand  varieties found in Peru. Whilst the yellow and red chillis were a little on the spicy side for us wimpy Europeans, the green ones were just perfect and tasted amazing mixed together with the stuffing and the cheese. They make a great dish for dinner parties because they look amazing and taste even better, and I can't wait to try them again at home.

Had it been anything other than fondue, I'd probably have had to pass on dessert but who can say no to a bowl of melted chocolate? My mouth is watering at the very thought. The pepino fruit has a subtle taste so was simply a refreshing addition to the perfect chocolate and banana combo! We all but licked our bowls clean.

 Hana and I were joined on the course by an American family so enjoyed the meal altogether with them. It was a lovely evening and the perfect way to end our time in Peru, having come away with great recipes, full bellies, and a place to stay if we ever find ourselves in Washington!







Thursday, 17 July 2014

A Quick Tour of Cusco

The city of Cusco sits at 3,400 metres high so it's a great place to stay for a couple of days and climatise to the altitude ahead of the infamous Inca Trail. We spent two nights there either side of the trek which was just enough time to enjoy everything the city has to offer. 

Due to it being a base for Machu Picchu, the centre of Cusco is very touristy but we were keen to delve deeper and find the true Peruvian hot spots. Therefore, on our first day we joined a free tour with a local guide called Luis who was also an avid historian. Along the way he gave us a detailed lesson on Peru's past as well as some good tips on how to avoid the usual tourist traps throughout Cusco. 

The tour began at a viewpoint just a little way up the mountain side which gave a great overview of the city. The main squares are pristine and beautiful but once we gazed out at the peripherals, we couldn't help but notice that the state of the streets quickly deteriorates. Even so, Luis informed us that Cusco is one of the richest parts of Peru and that much of the country live in complete squalor. 

Our next stop was even higher, at the White Christ statue right on top of the hill. Here, Luis explained that the religious beliefs of most Peruvians are a little complicated. When the Spaniards invaded in the sixteenth century, they enforced Christianity on the entire country. However, many of the natives clung onto their Inca traditions and so an interesting fusion has gradually evolved. As Luis spoke we were joined by an elderly man in traditional dress who wished to play us a song. He sang his little heart out whilst melting ours and strummed away on his instruments with the biggest smile on his face. 

Surrounding the Christ, there are various ruins which are now overrun with llamas and alpacas. On our way back to the centre, we popped into a store owned by Luis' friend who explained to us the differences between baby alpaca and 'maybe alpaca' wool so that we wouldn't later be conned at the markets. The most expensive garments cost hundreds of dollars even out here but they're dreamily soft and worth every penny. In addition, he showed us how they colour the threads using parasites which they simply squish to create a deep red paste. By adding different substances, they can then change the colour to purple, green, pink or black. At the end of the demonstration, he held what looked like an artist's pallette in his hands. 

It had already been an educational afternoon but Luis insisted on teaching us one more lesson; how to make (and drink!) a pisco sour. He took us along to his favourite bar and shared with us his recipe which he's perfected over the years. I swear the way the lime juice masks the 40% pisco spirit is nothing short of magic. 

With Machu Picchu out the way, it quickly dawned on us that our South American trip is nearly over so we hit the markets for souvenirs and gifts. The entire place is like one giant, psychedelic rainbow with each and every item so bright and multicoloured that it can be difficult to differentiate between them. However, with a little perseverance we came away with beautiful presents as well as some cheeky bargains for ourselves. 

The markets are also a great place to grab street food so we ate there on a number of occasions for less than two pounds a time. Our favourite Peruvian dish was Lomo Saltado but it seemed whatever we ordered, it was impossible to avoid the carbicide accompaniment of white rice and chips. Back at the hostel we also joined in on the alpaca BBQ night and discovered that these fluffy little animals taste as good as they feel. We were well and truly taken in by Peruvian cuisine so before we left Hana and I spent the day at a cooking course, learning to recreate these wonderful meals. In fact, it was so awesome that I've dedicated the entire next post to it (coming soon!)