The South American Adventure

So here we are almost four months later, back in Buenos Aires having completed a full circle of South America. When we were last here, I was still finding my feet on this strange, new continent and yet now I feel bizarrely at home. Strange, because in a couple of day's time we'll be in our actual homes and there are very few similarities which can be drawn between the two.  

This thought sparked an idea! By comparing England and South America, I can both reflect on my time here and bring this final chapter to a close, highlighting what I've missed about home and what I will miss about South America when I'm finally back on British soil.

#1 English Restaurants vs. South American Street Food

In England we're lucky that we have access to all kinds of cuisines but what we're missing is the option of buying it from a food market. From arepas and tortillas, to tapiocas and buñuelos, the very best South American meals are found on the street. Nothing feels more authentic than sitting cross legged on a cobbled step gobbling down a meal you've seen cooked right in front of you. Though we may have the occasional market in England, it lacks the excitement found at South American food stalls because the meals are priced similarly to nearby restaurants. The beauty of South America's street food is that it's so cheap, you have the freedom to try all kinds of crazy looking dishes which invariably lead to some amazing discoveries. If you don't like a meal, you've lost a couple of pounds at most but the same cannot be said for our London equivalents. It's worth noting that whichever continent you're on, people will often try and warn you away from street food but unless you have a stomach which is lined with flower petals, you'll more than likely be absolutely fine.

#2 English Parties vs. South American Fiestas

I do love good old English nights out but they're a world away from the parties thrown throughout South America. Whereas we like to plan our festivities down to a tee, including which pair of heels will be most appropriate for which club, South Americans just chuck it all together in a spectacularly spontaneous way. Wherever there are people there's potential for a party, whether it be a beach, a city square or a random back street alleyway. Just add some music and the dancing begins! If you were to stop and ask a South American why they're celebrating they'd look at you like you're crazy; 'because we're alive of course!' If you asked the same of a Brit on a night out they'd look at you like you're crazy and down another jägerbomb. 

#3 English Landscapes vs. South American Scenery

South America is massive and so it only makes sense that it has every kind of scenery you could possibly imagine. However, imagining it simply isn't enough and most of it you truly have to see to believe. One country alone can be home to tropical beaches, snow capped mountains, baron deserts and the Amazon rainforest! It's really quite amazing how quickly the scenery can change and no matter how much ground we covered, we never grew bored of simply staring out into South American space. England has some beautiful areas but it lacks the huge variety which makes South America so exciting.

#4 English Solitude vs. South American Smiles 

We English keep ourselves to ourselves. Nobody wants to be that crazy person on the tube who strikes up conversation, even less so the poor soul who has to suffer sitting next to that crazy person. In South America it seems the opposite is true; you'd be mad not to speak to the person next to you. Language barrier? No problem. They'll tease a sentence out of you even if it takes them the entire thirty hour bus journey. As much as they interact with one another, we found locals to be twice as interested in us. They'd offer directions before we even realised we were lost and stop us in the most random places simply to ask where we're from. Initially we had our guards up: all these stories had convinced us that any attempt to speak with us would be some sort of distraction whilst their mate mugged our bags but we soon realised these people have a genuine interest in others around them. And why not? Virtually everyone we spoke to taught us something new and we were continually surprised by the people we'd then choose to return to for a second conversation. 

#5 English Prices vs. South American Pennies

Aside from Brazil and Chile, the countries we visited in South America were dirt cheap. This has obvious benefits but best of all was that it enabled us to try new things that we would never have been able to afford on the same budget in England. For example, we swam with wild dolphins, threw ourselves down a canyon and climbed a 6,000m mountain all for the equivalent of just a few pounds a time. I imagined that dealing with such small figures would devalue the money but quite the contrary! We were ecstatic each time we haggled hard and saved ourselves an almighty sixty pence because that additional sixty pence was not only a couple of coins, but three empanadas, a laundry service or an entire meal at the food market. I'm going to miss how far our money goes and our dedication to making every penny count. 

#6 English Graffiti vs. South American Street Art

Any spritz of colour in an English city is deemed to be vandalism whereas in South America, it is celebrated as art. As a result it's a beautiful and vibrant continent with every blank space a potential canvas for the latest innovative street art masterpiece. Almost every town and city we visited was filled with street murals and interesting, abstract statues, as though the entire area is one big art gallery. I understand there's a fine line between a masterpiece and a monstrosity but I can't help thinking England could do with a little lightening up. If we stopped chasing down every kid with a spray can we might give them time to develop their mindless graffiti into something a little more meaningful.

#7 English Long Journeys vs. South American Never-ending Journeys 

Having done some rough sums we've worked out that during our four months in South America we've spent over four hundred hours on buses. That's about two and a half weeks! The longest stint was our last where we did three overnight journeys in a row, from La Paz to Uyuni, Uyuni to Villazon and Villazon to Buenos Aires - a total of sixty two hours, without including the waiting time inbetween. If we were to drive for this long in England we'd end up half way to Africa! It's hilarious to me now that I used to complain about a one hour journey into London when we can now happily endure a twenty hour bus over various borders. That said, whilst some of the buses were absolutely horrendous, others were very pleasant with fully reclining chairs, in-seat entertainment and three course meals. National Express could learn a lot from Argentinian bus companies!

#8 English Highlands vs. South American Mountains

As much as I love the beautiful South American mountains, they come at a price: altitude! Unless you're content with admiring them from below you'll likely suffer the headaches and breathlessness caused by being so high. Initially we were literally waking up in the night gasping for air and feeling as though we'd run a marathon after climbing a flight of stairs. Though we gradually acclimatised, I never got fully used to living in the clouds and I'm looking forward to feeling full of life again down at ground zero. English countryside can be just as impressive despite not ever exceeding the one thousand metre mark.

#9 English Customer Service vs. South American Sloth Service

South Americans are never in a hurry and their customer service leaves a lot to be desired. It completely baffled us that we could spend twenty minutes queuing to pay for three items at a supermarket, or three hours to do a border crossing that some people have to do every day. Fortunately, as travellers we were rarely pushed for time either and so mostly found their laid back outlook rather refreshing but if I were to actually live here, I think I'd find it far more infuriating. For a nation that love to celebrate life, they spend a hell of a lot of it waiting around for something to happen.

#10 English Health & Safety Madness vs. South American See-What-Happens Mantra

This is always a tricky one. Whilst health and safety regulations are obviously put in place to reduce the likelihood of accidents occurring, when they're applied stringently they simultaneously reduce the likelihood of having any fun. If we'd been following British rules, there's no way we'd have been allowed to share a stream with alligators, walk along an active train track or race head first down a vertical sand slope; all of which were truly awesome. However, had we been eaten, run over or left with broken bones, I imagine they would have been considerably less enjoyable. I'm not sure either continent has the balance completely right here but it was exciting to err on the side of incaution for a little while, and thankfully I've lived to tell tale (touch wood, one day to go!) Where I do definitely side with England though is their approach to hygiene. Though forced to accept a long time ago that filthy squat toilets won't kill me, I nevertheless will be ecstatic to return to western bathroom facilities where the prominent colour is white and toilet roll can actually be thrown into the toilet. 

England and South America really are worlds apart and yet I find myself thinking fondly of both. How is it that I can be happy in two places which are in so many ways direct opposites of one another? Well one thing I've certainly learnt since being away is that nothing is ever black and white in terms of being good or bad, right or wrong, and I think these two places are a great example of that. One is not perfect and the other flawed; they're both just different and both just fine. In fact, more than fine, they're both f*cking fantastic!

I never thought I could love a continent as much as I love Asia but South America has exceeded all my expectations. We spent just shy of four months here but I think even after four years I'd still be left wanting more. I'm almost pleased that there are parts we missed out on because it just means we'll have to return! I've no doubt I'll be back before I know it and I absolutely cannot wait.

A Cooking Class in Cusco

With only a few weeks left in South America, the time had come to move on from Peru but we weren't yet ready to leave Peruvian food behind. Therefore, on our last day in Cusco Hana and I enrolled onto a cooking course so that we could recreate the magic, even when we're back home in our own kitchens ten thousand miles away.

The menu of the day consisted of crema de quinoa, chillis rellentas and fondue de chocolate y frutta, accompanied of course with a pisco sour. Such an epic feast required a number of ingredients so we began our day with a visit to the local market. Whilst there the head chef stopped at various stalls and picked up all sorts of exotic fruits for us to try. I wish we'd known sooner what we've been missing out on! One in particular, called chirimoyo, caught my attention. Whilst it took the shape of a deformed apple, it tasted like a juicy candy floss; simultaneously refreshing and sweet!

Other parts of the market weren't so pleasant. Though it was interesting to see the local stalls versus the tourist ones, I could have done without witnessing pigs being sliced open in the aisles, chicken feet poking out at all angles, and cows heads with their teeth still intact stacked up on display. It was almost enough to put us off our impending meal!

Almost, but not quite. Back in the kitchen we were raring to go and got started right away with the preparations. Here's how it went...

Crema de Quinoa: 

250g ground quinoa
1 clove garlic
1/2 onion
 250g diced beef
1 egg
1 spoon coriander
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp pepper
Salt to taste

Step 1 - Finely dice garlic and onion and place into an oiled pan. Add 1/4 tsp of cumin and the same again of pepper.

Step 2 - Fry the diced beef until its dry. Add more oil and repeat until meat is light brown. Then add one cup of water per person.

Step 3 - Grind the quinoa and add the flour to the mixture. Stir it altogether until thick and creamy. 

Step 4 - Sprinkle with coriander as a finishing touch.

Chillis Rellentas: 

 2 big chillis
300g minced beef
3 cloves of garlic
1/2 tsp cumin
1 spoon ground chilli
1 medium onion
2 carrots
50g peas
20 peanuts
1 hard boiled egg or olives
60g cheese
1 fresh egg
4 tbsp spoons oil
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp pepper
 Salt to taste

Step 1 - Slice the head off each chilli and remove any seeds and veins. This makes room for the stuffing but more importantly, reduces the otherwise insane spice.

Step 2 - Place the chillis and their hats into a pan and leave to boil for 7-10 minutes. Drain the water and repeat this a further two times.

Step 3 - Meanwhile, finely dice the garlic, carrots and onions.

Step 4 - Crush yellow chilli and peanuts in two separate bowls and grind into pastes.

Step 5 - Put 4 tbsp of vegetable oil into a pan and add the garlic. Next  add a tsp of cumin followed by a sprinkling of pepper, and then the chilli paste.

Step 6 - Once mixed together, add the onions and stir until clear and soft. Then add the minced beef and mix in thoroughly. Throw in the diced carrots and peas and cover it all in water.

Step 7 - Finally, add the peanut paste and leave to simmer for 15-20 minutes.

Step 8 - Add two teaspoons of salt and take mixture off the heat.

 Step 9 - Oil a tray and place the chillis onto it.

Step 10 - Hardboil eggs or use olives to slice and place in the bottom of the chillis. Then fill the rest of the chilli with the mixture.

Step 11 - Place a slice of mature cheese between the chilli and its hat.

 Step 12 - Whisk one egg white, add the yolk and a pinch of salt and continue whisking. When ready, drizzle the egg over the chilli hats.

Step 13 - Place the tray into the oven and bake on high (approximately 240 degrees) for 15 minutes.

Fondue de Chocolate y Frutta 

200g dark chocolate
1/4 cup milk
Fruit of your choice

Step 1 - Slice your chosen fruit (we used pepino and banana but any will work) and spear them onto a kebab stick.

 Step 2 - Break up dark chocolate into small pieces and place them in a bowl over a pan of boiling water. Once melted, add the milk and mix in.

 Step 3 - Pour into an ice cream bowl and serve with fruit on the side.

 Pisco Sour

3 ounces pisco
1 ounce lime juice
1 ounce bar syrup
1 egg white
6 ice cubes
3-4 drops of angostora bitter

Step 1 - Pour a triple measure of pisco, into a cocktail shaker.

Step 2 - Add 25ml of lime juice and 25ml of bar syrup.

Step 3 - Throw in six ice cubes and secure the lid.

Step 4 - Shake for 2 minutes or until the ice cubes sound broken.

Step 5 - Pour into glass and add 3-4 drops of angostora bitter.

Step 6 - Try not to down it in one.

The pisco sours went down so well, I'd nearly finished mine before the starters had even been served. However, once the quinoa soup arrived, I was quickly distracted by how delicious it was. If I were to cook it again I think I'd leave out the beef as the soup itself was thick and creamy, making it filling enough without the additional meat. In fact, I had to force myself not to finish it so that I still had some room left for the rest of the meal.

Our main course was presented so beautifully, it almost looked too good to eat. The chillis were accompanied by a variety of different potatoes; regular, black, white and roka, just four of the four thousand  varieties found in Peru. Whilst the yellow and red chillis were a little on the spicy side for us wimpy Europeans, the green ones were just perfect and tasted amazing mixed together with the stuffing and the cheese. They make a great dish for dinner parties because they look amazing and taste even better, and I can't wait to try them again at home.

Had it been anything other than fondue, I'd probably have had to pass on dessert but who can say no to a bowl of melted chocolate? My mouth is watering at the very thought. The pepino fruit has a subtle taste so was simply a refreshing addition to the perfect chocolate and banana combo! We all but licked our bowls clean.

 Hana and I were joined on the course by an American family so enjoyed the meal altogether with them. It was a lovely evening and the perfect way to end our time in Peru, having come away with great recipes, full bellies, and a place to stay if we ever find ourselves in Washington!

Making it to Machu Picchu

Against all odds we made it to Machu Picchu. 

Rather than joining an organised tour, we made the bold decision to go it alone which would save us money and make it more of an adventure. And an adventure, we had! 

Day one began relatively well, starting with a simple bus journey from Cusco to Santa Maria which took us around five hours. For the last leg to Santa Theresa we had to transfer into a smaller collectivo because the windy roads around the mountain side were barely wide enough for cars, let alone buses. The drive was beautiful but a little nerve wracking as we zoomed through waterfalls and over rickety wooden bridges, all the while hoping we wouldn't meet an oncoming vehicle. 

 It was late afternoon when we arrived in Santa Theresa but we had just enough time to explore the tiny square and then walk to the natural hot springs down in the valley. Compared to the town which was virtually empty, the pools were rather crowded but it was nevertheless a perfectly relaxing evening in the most amazing setting. As dusk fell, the view was so stunning that it looked like a flawless black and white photograph behind us. You'd think we'd be all mountain'ed out by now but they never fail to impress me. 

The second day is where our journey took a turn for the worse. After a sugary breakfast we set off on a six hour hike but we'd barely made it ten minutes before having to stop because Erica had skidded and smashed her knee against a rock. For a while we were unsure whether we'd be able to continue but she soldiered on and before long, we were all distracted by other pains. It wasn't a difficult walk but the sun was beaming down on our sunburnt shoulders and our already fragile feet blistered right away. 

We made it to the halfway point, Hidro Electrico, by lunchtime so stopped again for something to eat. A small Peruvian girl decided to join us, helping herself to all of our snacks. Though cute at first, it soon became apparent that she wanted more than just our food and she turned pretty nasty when we had to say no. Fending off an attack from a five year old with pigtails was probably one of our all time lows. 

It was also our cue to get moving again so we hauled ourselves up and headed off in the direction of Aguas Calientes where we'd spend the night. For the majority of the walk, we followed the railway, diving out the way whenever we heard the sound of an approaching train. We arrived exhausted so checked into the first hostel we found and didn't move until our stomachs insisted. 

Having only passed a couple of tiny convenience stores on our way in, we'd assumed that this town was as small and quiet as the last but we were quite wrong! Upon entering the restaurant next door, we were amazed to find another entrance which led out to a bustling square the other side. Unlike the deserted and dusty old road we'd come from, it was full of grand statues, souvenir shops and an overwhelming number of cafés and restaurants. It was like we'd found a Peruvian Narnia! 

However, before settling on somewhere for dinner, we had to buy our tickets for Machu Picchu the following morning. Once we found the office, we were told we needed to present our IDs to make the purchase which would have been no problem at all were it not for the fact that both my passport and driving licence were locked up in my backpack, twelve hours away in Cusco. Panic stricken, I begged the lady for an alternative option and eventually she agreed that a copy should suffice. Once we'd found an internet café with a printer, it seemed our trip to Machu Picchu was back on track. 

The third and final morning we woke up at 4am with the intention of reaching the ancient city by sunrise. It was still pitch black when we set off and stupidly, it hadn't occurred to us to bring a flashlight. Every now and again we'd catch up with a group that had a torch between them but they'd eventually disappear again into the abyss and we'd return to tripping up every other step. However, despite the obvious difficulties it was still pretty exciting and we plodded along quite happily. 

That is, until the rain began. 

With an hour left ahead of us, a storm came hammering down which was not only dismal, but dangerous too as we were slipping and sliding up the steep path without knowing where to place our feet. We barely said one word to one another as we climbed, focusing all our efforts on just getting to the top. I'm not sure at what point I lost the others but when I turned around to gaze back upon the mountains emerging through the cloud, neither Hana nor Erica were anywhere to be seen. I stopped and waited assuming they'd catch up but after twenty minutes they still hadn't appeared. I was tired and began to doubt myself. Perhaps they are ahead? I continued on, deciding they must already be at the entrance waiting for me. 

But they were not. Confused, I waited for a further twenty minutes. 

Then thirty. 

Then forty. 

Where on earth are they? I was starting to worry something serious had happened so began to ask strangers if they'd passed two girls in trouble. It was light by this point and in their fluorescent pink and purple rain jackets, they really shouldn't have been difficult to spot. But no-one had seen them. 

Forced to assume that they'd gone in without me, I joined the queue to enter Machu Picchu. Cue my next problem. After digging around in my rucksack for the necessary paperwork, I pulled out only the disintegrated remains of my ticket and passport copy. The rain had seeped its way in through the seams, leaving me with very little evidence that I'd ever paid. I wasn't allowed in. 

By this point I was too tired to even process the thought of coming all this way and not setting eyes on the wonder of the world. What on earth will I tell everyone? Exhausted and completely out of ideas, I burst into tears. Fortunately a young official took pity on me and disappeared off to argue my case. Meanwhile, I took cover from the rain and attempted to reassemble the essential parts of my ticket. 

 It was then I finally spotted Erica and Hana - I don't think I've ever been so pleased to see them! We exchanged dramas (they'd taken a wrong turn and ended up walking the considerably longer bus route) and I waited for my little man to return. He took almost an hour but eventually brought good news and as if to acknowledge this happy occasion, the awful rain finally stopped. 

We were stressed, soaked and shivering uncontrollably from the cold, but we were in! Triumphantly, we marched through the final passageways and caught our first glimpse of the incredible Machu Picchu. Even with the cloud lingering around the surrounding mountains, the rows of stone ruins standing in the glowing green fields are indescribably beautiful. In fact, the fog almost added to the scene, giving it a mystical appearance like the lost city it once was. 

Moments later, however, it had disappeared entirely, overcome by a large white cloud which swept through the remains. We took this opportunity to find ourselves a guide who we hoped could bring the city to life with stories of its past. Before long we came across a young man with a dodgy haircut and creepy smile but an infallible knowledge of Machu Picchu. He took us around various important sites including temples, the king's houses and the main square, explaining what would have happened in each area. It's surprisingly big and took us over two hours to cover just one side but we needed that long anyway to dry off and return to a reasonable temperature before attempting to descend. 

The walk back to Hidro Electrico was lengthy and tiring but the promise of a warm bed and camomile tea back in Cusco kept us going. Once we reached the road, we caught a taxi back to the city with a local man named Walter whose chatty nature crushed any dreams we'd had of sleeping the whole way home. However, he was so sweet that we really enjoyed speaking to him and it was a great opportunity to practise our Spanish for a solid five hours. 

Once we eventually made it, Machu Picchu was everything I had dreamed and more and those stunning images will remain in my mind forever. I am so very grateful that I did in fact get to see them!

A Quick Tour of Cusco

The city of Cusco sits at 3,400 metres high so it's a great place to stay for a couple of days and climatise to the altitude ahead of the infamous Inca Trail. We spent two nights there either side of the trek which was just enough time to enjoy everything the city has to offer. 

Due to it being a base for Machu Picchu, the centre of Cusco is very touristy but we were keen to delve deeper and find the true Peruvian hot spots. Therefore, on our first day we joined a free tour with a local guide called Luis who was also an avid historian. Along the way he gave us a detailed lesson on Peru's past as well as some good tips on how to avoid the usual tourist traps throughout Cusco. 

The tour began at a viewpoint just a little way up the mountain side which gave a great overview of the city. The main squares are pristine and beautiful but once we gazed out at the peripherals, we couldn't help but notice that the state of the streets quickly deteriorates. Even so, Luis informed us that Cusco is one of the richest parts of Peru and that much of the country live in complete squalor. 

Our next stop was even higher, at the White Christ statue right on top of the hill. Here, Luis explained that the religious beliefs of most Peruvians are a little complicated. When the Spaniards invaded in the sixteenth century, they enforced Christianity on the entire country. However, many of the natives clung onto their Inca traditions and so an interesting fusion has gradually evolved. As Luis spoke we were joined by an elderly man in traditional dress who wished to play us a song. He sang his little heart out whilst melting ours and strummed away on his instruments with the biggest smile on his face. 

Surrounding the Christ, there are various ruins which are now overrun with llamas and alpacas. On our way back to the centre, we popped into a store owned by Luis' friend who explained to us the differences between baby alpaca and 'maybe alpaca' wool so that we wouldn't later be conned at the markets. The most expensive garments cost hundreds of dollars even out here but they're dreamily soft and worth every penny. In addition, he showed us how they colour the threads using parasites which they simply squish to create a deep red paste. By adding different substances, they can then change the colour to purple, green, pink or black. At the end of the demonstration, he held what looked like an artist's pallette in his hands. 

It had already been an educational afternoon but Luis insisted on teaching us one more lesson; how to make (and drink!) a pisco sour. He took us along to his favourite bar and shared with us his recipe which he's perfected over the years. I swear the way the lime juice masks the 40% pisco spirit is nothing short of magic. 

With Machu Picchu out the way, it quickly dawned on us that our South American trip is nearly over so we hit the markets for souvenirs and gifts. The entire place is like one giant, psychedelic rainbow with each and every item so bright and multicoloured that it can be difficult to differentiate between them. However, with a little perseverance we came away with beautiful presents as well as some cheeky bargains for ourselves. 

The markets are also a great place to grab street food so we ate there on a number of occasions for less than two pounds a time. Our favourite Peruvian dish was Lomo Saltado but it seemed whatever we ordered, it was impossible to avoid the carbicide accompaniment of white rice and chips. Back at the hostel we also joined in on the alpaca BBQ night and discovered that these fluffy little animals taste as good as they feel. We were well and truly taken in by Peruvian cuisine so before we left Hana and I spent the day at a cooking course, learning to recreate these wonderful meals. In fact, it was so awesome that I've dedicated the entire next post to it (coming soon!)

Sand, Brandy & Sweet Wine, A Fun-Filled Day in Ica

Our visit to Ica was a brief stopover which lasted no more than twelve hours, but what an awesome twelve hours it was. Compared to Paracas, this town was full of life and reminded me in many ways of our beloved Asian cities; colourful and chaotic with a dark exotic twist.

However, our Ica adventures truly began when we clambered into a tuk tuk heading to the sand dunes, a few miles South in Huacachina. Here, we found a tiny settlement built around a small oasis in the midst of what seems like a vast and endless desert. The community survives solely on tourists who visit in order to get a closer look at the stunning white sand dunes which is exactly what we intended on doing. 

After a little haggling we strapped ourselves into to the back of a dune buggy and zoomed off in the direction of the desert. It was a bumpy ride to say the least but exhilarating as we plummeted down the sandy hills, gathering just enough momentum to roll back up to the top. Some were so steep that it was impossible to tell what we would face the other side until we were already teetering over the edge and it was too late to retreat back the way we came. We were enjoying ourselves so much on this extended rollercoaster ride that we almost didn't notice the incredible views creeping up on us as we climbed higher higher. The moment we stopped and caught a glimpse of the scene behind us, it was quite breathtaking. In the blazing sunshine, the white sand turned golden and on this clear day we could just about make out the ends of the desert and the beginnings of the nearest life out on the horizon.

The next time we stopped was to unload the sand boards from the back of the buggy; it was time for a different kind of fun! Though I learnt to ski practically before I could walk, I've never tried my hand (or feet) at snowboarding so I was pretty excited to give it a go. The beauty of substituting the slopes for the sand dunes meant that when I would inevitably tumble head over heels, I'd hit soft warm sand rather than icy cold snow. With the likelihood of pain considerably diminished, we were free to throw ourselves down at ridiculous speeds, not really caring whether or not our boards could keep up. We started with smaller gradients and worked our way up until the final few were almost vertical. Some we tackled standing, others on our bums, and the steepest we took to going down head first on our tummies. Any way we tried, it was so much fun!

After all that excitement we were craving a glass of wine and so on our way back to Ica we stopped off at the El Catador winery. To our pleasant surprise, we were offered a free tour of the bodega followed by a tastings session of the various wines and piscos made on site. Our guide was a lovely Peruvian guy called Jorge who explained in detail how they transform their grapes into wine by stamping on them for hours and storing the juice in clay jars (as opposed to the traditional barrels used elsewhere in South America.) Once fermented, they then heat the wine to extract the alcohol which once condensed, becomes the popular Peruvian brandy, pisco.

Enough talk of the process though, he said; what really matters is the result! Jorge led us straight to the bar where he had one dry white and three sweet wines ready for us to taste. Before filling our glasses, however, he warned us that the Peruvians' idea of dry wine is equivalent to our sweet wine, their sweet wine is like our super sweet wine, and their super sweet wine is practically honey. He wasn't wrong but fortunately all three of us are guilty of a sweet tooth and we absolutely loved them. My favourite was the one they call 'Perfect Love Wine' which tastes as delightful as it sounds. 

Next up was the pisco which didn't go down quite so well with me but there are few straight spirits which do, particularly those with a concentration of more than 45%! However, Jorge explained that Peruvians like to mix it with ginger ale to create chilcanos, whilst tourists tend to drink it as a pisco sour cocktail which contains sugar, lime juice and egg whites to dilute the burning taste. Sensing that we still needed a little more convincing, he whipped out the pisco cream liqueur. Similar to baileys, this creamy concoction was lush and I imagine would be even better with coffee, hot chocolate or drizzled over ice cream. I was converted!

Despite the session being free, Jorge and El Catador certainly got their money's worth out of us in the end as we piled our backpacks with small bottles of our favourite drinks as well as the pecan chocolates that accompany them so well. Extremely content, and full of sand and brandy, we then headed back to Ica and boarded our bus to our penultimate Peruvian destination, Cusco. 

Paracas, The Poor Man's Galapagos

It seemed a shame to come all the way to South America and not visit the Galapagos Islands but a paradise so perfect comes with a hefty price tag; one which at this stage of our trip, we simply could not afford. However, we found an alternative which has been dubbed 'The Poor Man's Galapagos' because it offers a similar glimpse at the exotic wildlife along the coast for a fraction of the price.

Paracas in Peru is a tiny little beach town and we needed only one day there to tick off both activities it has to offer. The first was a boat tour of the Ballestas Islands where we spotted a wide variety of seabirds in their natural habitats. Though initially shocked at the sheer size of the pelicans, and charmed by the little penguins shimmying their way down to the water's edge, we soon lost interest in the hundreds of other species of bird which were completely indistinguishable from regular blackbirds or overgrown pigeons. Other tourists on the boat went wild for the sea lions basking out on the rocks but having shared a picnic bench with a couple in New Zealand, we remained a little underwhelmed. It was another of those moments when we realised just what an incredible year we've had and how so many of our experiences will never be upstaged.

Just before midday, we were picked up by a minibus and taken to Paracas' natural reserve a few kilometres out of town. It consists entirely of desert but is unique in the way that it sits along the coast. Interestingly, it's also where the country sources a large majority of its natural salt and our guide literally scooped grains up from the ground for us to try. He later pointed out a rare type of seaweed found here which turns the sand red and is used for the colourings of cosmetics such as lipstick and hand creams. Aside from it being mildly educational, we could have given the reserve a miss. In fact, if I'm to be totally honest, the best part about Paracas was the street food we bought from the one and only stall in the square: barbecued chorizo and chicken heart kebabs! Perhaps if the weather had been more pleasant, the whole experience would have been slightly better but I suddenly felt rather pleased that we hadn't forked out the hundreds of pounds to visit the actual Galapagos. Even if the real deal is doubly as beautiful, I'm still not sure it would have been worth the money.

An Important Life Lesson Learnt in Lima: How to Make Peruvian Truffles

It's a well-known fact that Peruvian chocolate is particularly delicious, so whilst in the country's capital we took the opportunity to uncover some of their secrets. 

In the heart of Miraflores in Lima lies Choco Museo, a delightful little chocolate shop and cafe where they make their own chocolates from bean to bar. Every flavour imaginable is on offer, from passionfruit to chilli, as well as some chocolatey concoctions of jams and liqueurs. One of our favourite experiments was the Cocoa Tea which tastes just like hot chocolate but contains next to no calories - win! 

However, the best part about Choco Museo is that it runs daily workshops for those who want to try their hand at creating their own chocolate. If you have the time, you can start from the very beginning with the roasting of the cocoa beans but we opted to jump ahead and turn the ready made chocolate into edible treats. 

Firstly, we chose to make orange chocolate candies and began by adding orange peel to a saucer of cream which we then heated and stirred. Once boiling, we sieved the cream into a large bowl of their homemade melted chocolate and whisked the two together to create the ganache centre. The cocoa aroma was so amazing, I was ready to grab a spoon and start tucking in but there was still a lot of work to be done! 

Putting this mixture to one side for a moment, we melted another bowl of chocolate to create the outer layer. It's important to reach the perfect temperature of forty-five degrees Celsius before taking the chocolate off the heat and spreading it thinly onto a marble slab. This process of heating the chocolate and then cooling it quickly is called tempering. Once the chocolate had fallen to twenty-eight degrees, it was ready to pour into the moulds. I opted for a mixture of seashells and hearts which is about as girly as it gets.

Using our fingers, we ensured every surface of the mould was covered before filling the majority with the ganache mixture. It was surprising how quickly the candies set and within minutes we were able to add the bottom layer of chocolate to finish them off. 

Now onto the truffles! The ganache required for truffles needs five hours to harden so in true old school Blue Peter style, our chocolatier teacher whipped out a mixture she'd made earlier. This time, she'd infused it with coconut flakes. Using our palms, we rolled the ganache into tiny balls which would form the centre of the truffles. The mixture melted almost instantly in our hands so we had to leave the balls to harden again before progressing onto the next step.

Whilst they were in the fridge, we ensured that the remainder of the melted chocolate we'd used earlier for the candies was still at an optimum temperature. If it exceeds thirty-two degrees, it's necessary to repeat the tempering process. Luckily, ours was okay and so when the balls were ready we dropped them into the bowl and buried them in a thick layer of melted chocolate. Working quickly before they had a chance to set, we covered the truffles with decorations of our choice.

Here's where it became obvious who the children of the group are. Whilst Erica sprinkled hers with cinnamon and coconut flakes, adding walnuts as a finishing touch to her professional looking masterpieces, Hana and I reached for marshmallows, smarties and oreos to create a collection which could have been designed by an overexcited ten year old. Nevertheless, they all tasted delicious and we were extremely pleased with the results!

We only had a couple of days in Lima and spent the majority either making or munching chocolate but we did also find time to visit the Parque Del La Reserva. Here, we wandered around (and sometimes through!) the various abstract water fountains which are lit up in the evening with brightly coloured lights that change in time to the atmospheric music. Before we left we caught the laser light show projected onto a wall of water which was both beautiful and impressive.

Lima as a city feels very Westernised but we enjoyed our time there thoroughly and learnt a fantastic skill. I can't wait to recreate our truffle workshop in my own kitchen!

First Impressions of Peru

I hadn't expected to fall so in love with Ecuador, but after just ten days I'd become pretty attached to it as a country. I think for the most part, it was the people who charmed me with their huge, toothless smiles beneath trusty panama hats and long dark plaits which were always weaved with tatty yet colourful threads. But as sad as I was to be leaving Ecuador, I couldn't wait to get to Peru. Ever since arriving in South America back in April, it's been the country I've been most looking forward to. In particular, I was excited to try out all the new foods as my favourite restaurant back in London is Peruvian.

My body, however, had other ideas. The minute we crossed the border, I was smacked in the face (and stomach) with a wave of sickness. Therefore, the most I saw of our first stop, Piura, was the inside of our hotel room and a toilet bowl. Far from my daydreams of tasting exotic flavoured quinoas, I was on a strict diet of water and Ritz crackers for almost forty eight hours. 

Thankfully by the time we caught our next overnight bus, I felt considerably better but the opposite was true for Hana who was slowly turning an unhealthy shade of green. We arrived in Chachapoyas hideously early the next morning and it seemed that unless we all took a day to relax, it would be Erica next and we'd just keep circulating sickness. 

For the sake of some fresh air I took a stroll around town but it was so small that it took me all of about ten minutes. Had it been any larger though, I'm sure I'd have got lost because each block is identical to the next with white painted buildings and black lettered shop signs scrolled across the doorways. Though a very pretty little town, the extent of my discoveries was a local market selling not so fresh fruit, a 'supermarket' that was little more than a higgledy piggledy corner shop and a bakery which sold cake pops (day saved!) Nevertheless, it was enough to allow me to form my first impressions of Peru: tuk tuks, sunshine and super cheap price tags. If I didn't know any better, I'd have thought we were in Asia! 

The reason people visit Chachapoyas is to see the Kuelap ruins a couple of hours outside of town so we booked a bus for the following day. The journey through the mountains was beautiful but slightly terrifying as we wound our way between boulders and potholes with not a curb, but a cliff edge to our side.

The ancient village of Kualep is built at the very top of a mountain with walls which quite remarkably follow the irregularity of the peak. It was once inhabited by Chachapoyans but shows strong evidence of an Incan invasion and influence. Now, thousands of years later, the only life there is llamas. Only the foundations of buildings have survived but historians have studied the area and with a little imagination, our guide helped us to rebuild a mental image of what they might have looked like. The circular homes were relatively large but would house up to seven family members and a whole load of guinea pigs (which is served as a traditional dish in Peru even to this day.) Rather spookily, the houses also acted as cemeteries as families would bury their dead within the grounds of their homes to feel close to them even once they'd passed. The interesting village of Kualep holds a real air of mystery about it as nobody knows for sure the reason why it was deserted all those years ago.

So far Peru has been wonderful but very different to how I expected. However, we're heading to the capital next which is likely to give a more wholesome view of the country than the tiny town of Chachapoyas.