A Trip to the Amazon: Piranhas, Pink Dolphins and a Painful Bus Journey

We'd been warned about the bus journey to Rurrenbaque. 'Don't do it', they said, 'take a flight instead.' But surely there's no way it could be worse than the hundreds of others we've taken through South America? The rollercoaster ride from Medellin to Ecuador? The twenty four hours to Lima with the leaking ceiling and stinking toilet? Or even most recently, the eighteen hours to Cusco on a bus so cold our fingers turned blue? 

 Well, it turns out there was a way; many in fact. The bus to Rurrenbaque was nothing more than a tin box on wheels into which they crammed dozens of people, along with their twenty pieces of luggage each. Some families appeared to be literally moving house, whilst others were using the bus journey to shift their stock. The underneath of the bus was stuffed with everything from sacks of red onions, to live red squirrels (at least they were alive when we left) and our backpacks had the unfortunate job of cushioning a box filled with chopped up fish. We couldn't get rid of the smell for days. 

Then there were the seats; we may as well have been sitting on rocks for twenty two hours and Hana and I were allocated the only two seats on the entire bus which didn't recline in the slightest. What is more, the little leg room we had was invaded by the crazy number of kids sprawled out on the floor because their parents hadn't bought them actual tickets. 

However, even if the bus had had king sized double beds installed, there still would've been zero chance of us catching any sleep. The 'road' between La Paz and Rurrenbaque is in fact a dirt track with holes and ridges so deep that we were physically coming out of our seats as it bumped along. Just in case that wasn't extreme enough, the road follows the edge of the mountain so at times we were sure we'd be thrown off the cliff face! 

 It was no doubt up there with one of the worst nights of my life but arriving the next day in the Amazon was pretty awesome. We took one day to just relax and recover in the glorious Amazon sunshine and then booked a trip for the following morning to the Pampas wetlands. This also happened to be Erica's birthday so Hana and I woke up super early to wrap presents, blow up balloons and prepare a delicious nutella-filled breakfast before the jeep came to collect us. 

After a three hour drive back down that dreaded dirt track, we arrived at the river where we boarded our boat. Gliding through the water felt heavenly in comparison to the awfully bumpy road and with the sun beaming down, it was the perfect way to spend the afternoon. That was before we even saw any animals! The Pampas wetlands are notorious for rainforest wildlife and we saw plenty along our way. 

First and foremost were the alligators who were mostly basking out on the banks but occasionally we'd come across one taking a dip. Our guide assured us that these gigantic beasts take little interest in tourists but it was nevertheless pretty nerve wracking to be so close to them with only a wooden long boat as protection. If any of them fancied a change in diet, they'd smash through the boat in seconds. 

A little less terrifying were the families of turtles and the tiny yellow monkeys we found bounding around in the bushes. The latter were so friendly that we were able to sail right up to them and some even joined us aboard the boat (although at this point Hana decided they were as menacing as the alligators.) Higher up in the shrubbery we spotted all kinds of birds of paradise, many so large that they appeared to defy all laws of science by being able to fly. It was like seeing a turkey up a tree! 

We were almost at the lodge when the first dolphin appeared from beneath the surface. Unique to this area of the Amazon, these dolphins are pink in colour and as they swam a little way with us alongside the boat, we were absolutely mesmerised by their presence. However, we didn't dwell too long in the area as we'd be seeing much more of them the next morning and our guide seemed keen to reach the lodge. 

Of course; it was the World Cup Final! The little wooden shacks were incredibly basic but somehow they'd set up a satellite TV and we watched the game from the comfort of hammocks out on the riverside decking. 

 Rather conveniently, it finished just in time for sunset so we jumped back on the boat and sailed a little way downstream to find the perfect spot to watch the sun disappear below the horizon. There was not a single cloud in the sky as it transitioned from its vibrant blue to bright orange, finally settling on a deep purple at dusk. Unfortunately though we weren't the only ones enjoying this beautiful setting; millions of mosquitoes had shown up to watch the sunset whilst simultaneously indulging in a feast. To avoid being completely eaten alive, we escaped back onto the boat and returned to our camp. 

The way back was amazing. In the darkness, the water looked like rippling silk and the forestry either side was lit up with hundreds of tiny fireflies, twinkling in the treetops like fallen stars caught in the branches. The stars themselves, however, were not to be upstaged, shining brightly alongside the silver moon. We'd almost forgotten our reptile friends until our torches fell upon the golden lights glowing from the riverbanks; alligator eyes! It was pretty surreal and absolutely stunning. 

Back at the lodge, we had dinner waiting for us and it was one of the most wholesome meals we've had in the whole of South America. To top it all off, they brought out a surprise birthday cake for Erica which was decorated with dulce de leche and tasted delicious! Sadly Erica was feeling ill so couldn't stomach any but Hana and I ate enough for everyone. 

Before we knew it we were back on the boat again, this time to watch the sunrise. It was five thirty when we set off so still rather dark but whilst we couldn't see any animals, we could certainly hear them! The larger howler monkeys were out in full force, growling their 'Good Mornings' like monsters from a cave. 

As we sailed along, a mist arose so although it was gradually getting lighter, our visibility barely improved. It was a little eerie but very cool and we arrived at the marshland just in time to see the red sphere rise behind a thick pink cloud. Though a complete contrast to the clear sunset the previous evening, it was by no means any less beautiful. 

After a banging breakfast back at the lodge it was time to go and play with the dolphins. I'd been so excited to get closer to these animals but when it actually came to jumping into the water, I was pretty scared. There were alligators about; we'd seen dozens the past two days! 

The lovely story we'd been sold that 'the dolphins' enchantments protect you from any harm' all of a sudden didn't suffice. I needed facts. Why, when there were so many alligators lurking about, were we so sure we wouldn't meet any? It turned out that the two never share the same space because dolphins only swim in deep water and alligators, shallow. Therefore as long as we followed the dolphins we'd be absolutely fine. 

Phew. We were in! The river was a murky brown colour from the clay so we couldn't see the dolphins until they appeared right beside us. They have to surface every couple of minutes for air and it was amazing to be in such close proximity to these beautiful creatures. Back on the boat we did our best to capture the dolphins on camera but they continually outsmarted us and our best shots looked like nothing more than a greyish pink lump disturbing the water. Fortunately, even without the photos, I think it's an experience I'll never forget. 

Before heading off, we stopped the boat for one last activity; a spot of fishing. It was then we learnt that we'd also been sharing the water with a bunch of piranhas! We were rather useless at first but by the end, we'd all three of us caught a piranha each. Hana's was yellow, mine and Erica's pink, and all pretty small as far as piranhas go. Even so, they still had teeth like tiny daggers which could do some serious damage regardless of their size. 

Immersing ourselves in the Amazon was absolutely magical and one of the best experiences of our entire trip. I'd go as far as saying it was the perfect weekend, if only we now didn't have to get back onto that god awful bus...
 

A Cooking Class in Cusco

With only a few weeks left in South America, the time had come to move on from Peru but we weren't yet ready to leave Peruvian food behind. Therefore, on our last day in Cusco Hana and I enrolled onto a cooking course so that we could recreate the magic, even when we're back home in our own kitchens ten thousand miles away.

The menu of the day consisted of crema de quinoa, chillis rellentas and fondue de chocolate y frutta, accompanied of course with a pisco sour. Such an epic feast required a number of ingredients so we began our day with a visit to the local market. Whilst there the head chef stopped at various stalls and picked up all sorts of exotic fruits for us to try. I wish we'd known sooner what we've been missing out on! One in particular, called chirimoyo, caught my attention. Whilst it took the shape of a deformed apple, it tasted like a juicy candy floss; simultaneously refreshing and sweet!

Other parts of the market weren't so pleasant. Though it was interesting to see the local stalls versus the tourist ones, I could have done without witnessing pigs being sliced open in the aisles, chicken feet poking out at all angles, and cows heads with their teeth still intact stacked up on display. It was almost enough to put us off our impending meal!

Almost, but not quite. Back in the kitchen we were raring to go and got started right away with the preparations. Here's how it went...

Crema de Quinoa: 

250g ground quinoa
1 clove garlic
1/2 onion
 250g diced beef
1 egg
1 spoon coriander
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp pepper
Salt to taste

Step 1 - Finely dice garlic and onion and place into an oiled pan. Add 1/4 tsp of cumin and the same again of pepper.

Step 2 - Fry the diced beef until its dry. Add more oil and repeat until meat is light brown. Then add one cup of water per person.

Step 3 - Grind the quinoa and add the flour to the mixture. Stir it altogether until thick and creamy. 

Step 4 - Sprinkle with coriander as a finishing touch.

Chillis Rellentas: 

 2 big chillis
300g minced beef
3 cloves of garlic
1/2 tsp cumin
1 spoon ground chilli
1 medium onion
2 carrots
50g peas
20 peanuts
1 hard boiled egg or olives
60g cheese
1 fresh egg
4 tbsp spoons oil
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp pepper
 Salt to taste

Step 1 - Slice the head off each chilli and remove any seeds and veins. This makes room for the stuffing but more importantly, reduces the otherwise insane spice.

Step 2 - Place the chillis and their hats into a pan and leave to boil for 7-10 minutes. Drain the water and repeat this a further two times.

Step 3 - Meanwhile, finely dice the garlic, carrots and onions.

Step 4 - Crush yellow chilli and peanuts in two separate bowls and grind into pastes.

Step 5 - Put 4 tbsp of vegetable oil into a pan and add the garlic. Next  add a tsp of cumin followed by a sprinkling of pepper, and then the chilli paste.

Step 6 - Once mixed together, add the onions and stir until clear and soft. Then add the minced beef and mix in thoroughly. Throw in the diced carrots and peas and cover it all in water.

Step 7 - Finally, add the peanut paste and leave to simmer for 15-20 minutes.

Step 8 - Add two teaspoons of salt and take mixture off the heat.

 Step 9 - Oil a tray and place the chillis onto it.

Step 10 - Hardboil eggs or use olives to slice and place in the bottom of the chillis. Then fill the rest of the chilli with the mixture.

Step 11 - Place a slice of mature cheese between the chilli and its hat.

 Step 12 - Whisk one egg white, add the yolk and a pinch of salt and continue whisking. When ready, drizzle the egg over the chilli hats.

Step 13 - Place the tray into the oven and bake on high (approximately 240 degrees) for 15 minutes.

Fondue de Chocolate y Frutta 

200g dark chocolate
1/4 cup milk
Fruit of your choice

Step 1 - Slice your chosen fruit (we used pepino and banana but any will work) and spear them onto a kebab stick.

 Step 2 - Break up dark chocolate into small pieces and place them in a bowl over a pan of boiling water. Once melted, add the milk and mix in.

 Step 3 - Pour into an ice cream bowl and serve with fruit on the side.

 Pisco Sour

3 ounces pisco
1 ounce lime juice
1 ounce bar syrup
1 egg white
6 ice cubes
3-4 drops of angostora bitter

Step 1 - Pour a triple measure of pisco, into a cocktail shaker.

Step 2 - Add 25ml of lime juice and 25ml of bar syrup.

Step 3 - Throw in six ice cubes and secure the lid.

Step 4 - Shake for 2 minutes or until the ice cubes sound broken.

Step 5 - Pour into glass and add 3-4 drops of angostora bitter.

Step 6 - Try not to down it in one.

The pisco sours went down so well, I'd nearly finished mine before the starters had even been served. However, once the quinoa soup arrived, I was quickly distracted by how delicious it was. If I were to cook it again I think I'd leave out the beef as the soup itself was thick and creamy, making it filling enough without the additional meat. In fact, I had to force myself not to finish it so that I still had some room left for the rest of the meal.

Our main course was presented so beautifully, it almost looked too good to eat. The chillis were accompanied by a variety of different potatoes; regular, black, white and roka, just four of the four thousand  varieties found in Peru. Whilst the yellow and red chillis were a little on the spicy side for us wimpy Europeans, the green ones were just perfect and tasted amazing mixed together with the stuffing and the cheese. They make a great dish for dinner parties because they look amazing and taste even better, and I can't wait to try them again at home.

Had it been anything other than fondue, I'd probably have had to pass on dessert but who can say no to a bowl of melted chocolate? My mouth is watering at the very thought. The pepino fruit has a subtle taste so was simply a refreshing addition to the perfect chocolate and banana combo! We all but licked our bowls clean.

 Hana and I were joined on the course by an American family so enjoyed the meal altogether with them. It was a lovely evening and the perfect way to end our time in Peru, having come away with great recipes, full bellies, and a place to stay if we ever find ourselves in Washington!

Making it to Machu Picchu

Against all odds we made it to Machu Picchu. 

Rather than joining an organised tour, we made the bold decision to go it alone which would save us money and make it more of an adventure. And an adventure, we had! 

Day one began relatively well, starting with a simple bus journey from Cusco to Santa Maria which took us around five hours. For the last leg to Santa Theresa we had to transfer into a smaller collectivo because the windy roads around the mountain side were barely wide enough for cars, let alone buses. The drive was beautiful but a little nerve wracking as we zoomed through waterfalls and over rickety wooden bridges, all the while hoping we wouldn't meet an oncoming vehicle. 

 It was late afternoon when we arrived in Santa Theresa but we had just enough time to explore the tiny square and then walk to the natural hot springs down in the valley. Compared to the town which was virtually empty, the pools were rather crowded but it was nevertheless a perfectly relaxing evening in the most amazing setting. As dusk fell, the view was so stunning that it looked like a flawless black and white photograph behind us. You'd think we'd be all mountain'ed out by now but they never fail to impress me. 

The second day is where our journey took a turn for the worse. After a sugary breakfast we set off on a six hour hike but we'd barely made it ten minutes before having to stop because Erica had skidded and smashed her knee against a rock. For a while we were unsure whether we'd be able to continue but she soldiered on and before long, we were all distracted by other pains. It wasn't a difficult walk but the sun was beaming down on our sunburnt shoulders and our already fragile feet blistered right away. 

We made it to the halfway point, Hidro Electrico, by lunchtime so stopped again for something to eat. A small Peruvian girl decided to join us, helping herself to all of our snacks. Though cute at first, it soon became apparent that she wanted more than just our food and she turned pretty nasty when we had to say no. Fending off an attack from a five year old with pigtails was probably one of our all time lows. 

It was also our cue to get moving again so we hauled ourselves up and headed off in the direction of Aguas Calientes where we'd spend the night. For the majority of the walk, we followed the railway, diving out the way whenever we heard the sound of an approaching train. We arrived exhausted so checked into the first hostel we found and didn't move until our stomachs insisted. 

Having only passed a couple of tiny convenience stores on our way in, we'd assumed that this town was as small and quiet as the last but we were quite wrong! Upon entering the restaurant next door, we were amazed to find another entrance which led out to a bustling square the other side. Unlike the deserted and dusty old road we'd come from, it was full of grand statues, souvenir shops and an overwhelming number of cafés and restaurants. It was like we'd found a Peruvian Narnia! 

However, before settling on somewhere for dinner, we had to buy our tickets for Machu Picchu the following morning. Once we found the office, we were told we needed to present our IDs to make the purchase which would have been no problem at all were it not for the fact that both my passport and driving licence were locked up in my backpack, twelve hours away in Cusco. Panic stricken, I begged the lady for an alternative option and eventually she agreed that a copy should suffice. Once we'd found an internet café with a printer, it seemed our trip to Machu Picchu was back on track. 

The third and final morning we woke up at 4am with the intention of reaching the ancient city by sunrise. It was still pitch black when we set off and stupidly, it hadn't occurred to us to bring a flashlight. Every now and again we'd catch up with a group that had a torch between them but they'd eventually disappear again into the abyss and we'd return to tripping up every other step. However, despite the obvious difficulties it was still pretty exciting and we plodded along quite happily. 

That is, until the rain began. 

With an hour left ahead of us, a storm came hammering down which was not only dismal, but dangerous too as we were slipping and sliding up the steep path without knowing where to place our feet. We barely said one word to one another as we climbed, focusing all our efforts on just getting to the top. I'm not sure at what point I lost the others but when I turned around to gaze back upon the mountains emerging through the cloud, neither Hana nor Erica were anywhere to be seen. I stopped and waited assuming they'd catch up but after twenty minutes they still hadn't appeared. I was tired and began to doubt myself. Perhaps they are ahead? I continued on, deciding they must already be at the entrance waiting for me. 

But they were not. Confused, I waited for a further twenty minutes. 

Then thirty. 

Then forty. 

Where on earth are they? I was starting to worry something serious had happened so began to ask strangers if they'd passed two girls in trouble. It was light by this point and in their fluorescent pink and purple rain jackets, they really shouldn't have been difficult to spot. But no-one had seen them. 

Forced to assume that they'd gone in without me, I joined the queue to enter Machu Picchu. Cue my next problem. After digging around in my rucksack for the necessary paperwork, I pulled out only the disintegrated remains of my ticket and passport copy. The rain had seeped its way in through the seams, leaving me with very little evidence that I'd ever paid. I wasn't allowed in. 

By this point I was too tired to even process the thought of coming all this way and not setting eyes on the wonder of the world. What on earth will I tell everyone? Exhausted and completely out of ideas, I burst into tears. Fortunately a young official took pity on me and disappeared off to argue my case. Meanwhile, I took cover from the rain and attempted to reassemble the essential parts of my ticket. 

 It was then I finally spotted Erica and Hana - I don't think I've ever been so pleased to see them! We exchanged dramas (they'd taken a wrong turn and ended up walking the considerably longer bus route) and I waited for my little man to return. He took almost an hour but eventually brought good news and as if to acknowledge this happy occasion, the awful rain finally stopped. 

We were stressed, soaked and shivering uncontrollably from the cold, but we were in! Triumphantly, we marched through the final passageways and caught our first glimpse of the incredible Machu Picchu. Even with the cloud lingering around the surrounding mountains, the rows of stone ruins standing in the glowing green fields are indescribably beautiful. In fact, the fog almost added to the scene, giving it a mystical appearance like the lost city it once was. 

Moments later, however, it had disappeared entirely, overcome by a large white cloud which swept through the remains. We took this opportunity to find ourselves a guide who we hoped could bring the city to life with stories of its past. Before long we came across a young man with a dodgy haircut and creepy smile but an infallible knowledge of Machu Picchu. He took us around various important sites including temples, the king's houses and the main square, explaining what would have happened in each area. It's surprisingly big and took us over two hours to cover just one side but we needed that long anyway to dry off and return to a reasonable temperature before attempting to descend. 

The walk back to Hidro Electrico was lengthy and tiring but the promise of a warm bed and camomile tea back in Cusco kept us going. Once we reached the road, we caught a taxi back to the city with a local man named Walter whose chatty nature crushed any dreams we'd had of sleeping the whole way home. However, he was so sweet that we really enjoyed speaking to him and it was a great opportunity to practise our Spanish for a solid five hours. 

Once we eventually made it, Machu Picchu was everything I had dreamed and more and those stunning images will remain in my mind forever. I am so very grateful that I did in fact get to see them!

A Quick Tour of Cusco

The city of Cusco sits at 3,400 metres high so it's a great place to stay for a couple of days and climatise to the altitude ahead of the infamous Inca Trail. We spent two nights there either side of the trek which was just enough time to enjoy everything the city has to offer. 

Due to it being a base for Machu Picchu, the centre of Cusco is very touristy but we were keen to delve deeper and find the true Peruvian hot spots. Therefore, on our first day we joined a free tour with a local guide called Luis who was also an avid historian. Along the way he gave us a detailed lesson on Peru's past as well as some good tips on how to avoid the usual tourist traps throughout Cusco. 

The tour began at a viewpoint just a little way up the mountain side which gave a great overview of the city. The main squares are pristine and beautiful but once we gazed out at the peripherals, we couldn't help but notice that the state of the streets quickly deteriorates. Even so, Luis informed us that Cusco is one of the richest parts of Peru and that much of the country live in complete squalor. 

Our next stop was even higher, at the White Christ statue right on top of the hill. Here, Luis explained that the religious beliefs of most Peruvians are a little complicated. When the Spaniards invaded in the sixteenth century, they enforced Christianity on the entire country. However, many of the natives clung onto their Inca traditions and so an interesting fusion has gradually evolved. As Luis spoke we were joined by an elderly man in traditional dress who wished to play us a song. He sang his little heart out whilst melting ours and strummed away on his instruments with the biggest smile on his face. 

Surrounding the Christ, there are various ruins which are now overrun with llamas and alpacas. On our way back to the centre, we popped into a store owned by Luis' friend who explained to us the differences between baby alpaca and 'maybe alpaca' wool so that we wouldn't later be conned at the markets. The most expensive garments cost hundreds of dollars even out here but they're dreamily soft and worth every penny. In addition, he showed us how they colour the threads using parasites which they simply squish to create a deep red paste. By adding different substances, they can then change the colour to purple, green, pink or black. At the end of the demonstration, he held what looked like an artist's pallette in his hands. 

It had already been an educational afternoon but Luis insisted on teaching us one more lesson; how to make (and drink!) a pisco sour. He took us along to his favourite bar and shared with us his recipe which he's perfected over the years. I swear the way the lime juice masks the 40% pisco spirit is nothing short of magic. 

With Machu Picchu out the way, it quickly dawned on us that our South American trip is nearly over so we hit the markets for souvenirs and gifts. The entire place is like one giant, psychedelic rainbow with each and every item so bright and multicoloured that it can be difficult to differentiate between them. However, with a little perseverance we came away with beautiful presents as well as some cheeky bargains for ourselves. 

The markets are also a great place to grab street food so we ate there on a number of occasions for less than two pounds a time. Our favourite Peruvian dish was Lomo Saltado but it seemed whatever we ordered, it was impossible to avoid the carbicide accompaniment of white rice and chips. Back at the hostel we also joined in on the alpaca BBQ night and discovered that these fluffy little animals taste as good as they feel. We were well and truly taken in by Peruvian cuisine so before we left Hana and I spent the day at a cooking course, learning to recreate these wonderful meals. In fact, it was so awesome that I've dedicated the entire next post to it (coming soon!)

Sand, Brandy & Sweet Wine, A Fun-Filled Day in Ica

Our visit to Ica was a brief stopover which lasted no more than twelve hours, but what an awesome twelve hours it was. Compared to Paracas, this town was full of life and reminded me in many ways of our beloved Asian cities; colourful and chaotic with a dark exotic twist.

However, our Ica adventures truly began when we clambered into a tuk tuk heading to the sand dunes, a few miles South in Huacachina. Here, we found a tiny settlement built around a small oasis in the midst of what seems like a vast and endless desert. The community survives solely on tourists who visit in order to get a closer look at the stunning white sand dunes which is exactly what we intended on doing. 

After a little haggling we strapped ourselves into to the back of a dune buggy and zoomed off in the direction of the desert. It was a bumpy ride to say the least but exhilarating as we plummeted down the sandy hills, gathering just enough momentum to roll back up to the top. Some were so steep that it was impossible to tell what we would face the other side until we were already teetering over the edge and it was too late to retreat back the way we came. We were enjoying ourselves so much on this extended rollercoaster ride that we almost didn't notice the incredible views creeping up on us as we climbed higher higher. The moment we stopped and caught a glimpse of the scene behind us, it was quite breathtaking. In the blazing sunshine, the white sand turned golden and on this clear day we could just about make out the ends of the desert and the beginnings of the nearest life out on the horizon.

The next time we stopped was to unload the sand boards from the back of the buggy; it was time for a different kind of fun! Though I learnt to ski practically before I could walk, I've never tried my hand (or feet) at snowboarding so I was pretty excited to give it a go. The beauty of substituting the slopes for the sand dunes meant that when I would inevitably tumble head over heels, I'd hit soft warm sand rather than icy cold snow. With the likelihood of pain considerably diminished, we were free to throw ourselves down at ridiculous speeds, not really caring whether or not our boards could keep up. We started with smaller gradients and worked our way up until the final few were almost vertical. Some we tackled standing, others on our bums, and the steepest we took to going down head first on our tummies. Any way we tried, it was so much fun!

After all that excitement we were craving a glass of wine and so on our way back to Ica we stopped off at the El Catador winery. To our pleasant surprise, we were offered a free tour of the bodega followed by a tastings session of the various wines and piscos made on site. Our guide was a lovely Peruvian guy called Jorge who explained in detail how they transform their grapes into wine by stamping on them for hours and storing the juice in clay jars (as opposed to the traditional barrels used elsewhere in South America.) Once fermented, they then heat the wine to extract the alcohol which once condensed, becomes the popular Peruvian brandy, pisco.

Enough talk of the process though, he said; what really matters is the result! Jorge led us straight to the bar where he had one dry white and three sweet wines ready for us to taste. Before filling our glasses, however, he warned us that the Peruvians' idea of dry wine is equivalent to our sweet wine, their sweet wine is like our super sweet wine, and their super sweet wine is practically honey. He wasn't wrong but fortunately all three of us are guilty of a sweet tooth and we absolutely loved them. My favourite was the one they call 'Perfect Love Wine' which tastes as delightful as it sounds. 

Next up was the pisco which didn't go down quite so well with me but there are few straight spirits which do, particularly those with a concentration of more than 45%! However, Jorge explained that Peruvians like to mix it with ginger ale to create chilcanos, whilst tourists tend to drink it as a pisco sour cocktail which contains sugar, lime juice and egg whites to dilute the burning taste. Sensing that we still needed a little more convincing, he whipped out the pisco cream liqueur. Similar to baileys, this creamy concoction was lush and I imagine would be even better with coffee, hot chocolate or drizzled over ice cream. I was converted!

Despite the session being free, Jorge and El Catador certainly got their money's worth out of us in the end as we piled our backpacks with small bottles of our favourite drinks as well as the pecan chocolates that accompany them so well. Extremely content, and full of sand and brandy, we then headed back to Ica and boarded our bus to our penultimate Peruvian destination, Cusco. 

Paracas, The Poor Man's Galapagos

It seemed a shame to come all the way to South America and not visit the Galapagos Islands but a paradise so perfect comes with a hefty price tag; one which at this stage of our trip, we simply could not afford. However, we found an alternative which has been dubbed 'The Poor Man's Galapagos' because it offers a similar glimpse at the exotic wildlife along the coast for a fraction of the price.

Paracas in Peru is a tiny little beach town and we needed only one day there to tick off both activities it has to offer. The first was a boat tour of the Ballestas Islands where we spotted a wide variety of seabirds in their natural habitats. Though initially shocked at the sheer size of the pelicans, and charmed by the little penguins shimmying their way down to the water's edge, we soon lost interest in the hundreds of other species of bird which were completely indistinguishable from regular blackbirds or overgrown pigeons. Other tourists on the boat went wild for the sea lions basking out on the rocks but having shared a picnic bench with a couple in New Zealand, we remained a little underwhelmed. It was another of those moments when we realised just what an incredible year we've had and how so many of our experiences will never be upstaged.

Just before midday, we were picked up by a minibus and taken to Paracas' natural reserve a few kilometres out of town. It consists entirely of desert but is unique in the way that it sits along the coast. Interestingly, it's also where the country sources a large majority of its natural salt and our guide literally scooped grains up from the ground for us to try. He later pointed out a rare type of seaweed found here which turns the sand red and is used for the colourings of cosmetics such as lipstick and hand creams. Aside from it being mildly educational, we could have given the reserve a miss. In fact, if I'm to be totally honest, the best part about Paracas was the street food we bought from the one and only stall in the square: barbecued chorizo and chicken heart kebabs! Perhaps if the weather had been more pleasant, the whole experience would have been slightly better but I suddenly felt rather pleased that we hadn't forked out the hundreds of pounds to visit the actual Galapagos. Even if the real deal is doubly as beautiful, I'm still not sure it would have been worth the money.

An Important Life Lesson Learnt in Lima: How to Make Peruvian Truffles

It's a well-known fact that Peruvian chocolate is particularly delicious, so whilst in the country's capital we took the opportunity to uncover some of their secrets. 

In the heart of Miraflores in Lima lies Choco Museo, a delightful little chocolate shop and cafe where they make their own chocolates from bean to bar. Every flavour imaginable is on offer, from passionfruit to chilli, as well as some chocolatey concoctions of jams and liqueurs. One of our favourite experiments was the Cocoa Tea which tastes just like hot chocolate but contains next to no calories - win! 

However, the best part about Choco Museo is that it runs daily workshops for those who want to try their hand at creating their own chocolate. If you have the time, you can start from the very beginning with the roasting of the cocoa beans but we opted to jump ahead and turn the ready made chocolate into edible treats. 

Firstly, we chose to make orange chocolate candies and began by adding orange peel to a saucer of cream which we then heated and stirred. Once boiling, we sieved the cream into a large bowl of their homemade melted chocolate and whisked the two together to create the ganache centre. The cocoa aroma was so amazing, I was ready to grab a spoon and start tucking in but there was still a lot of work to be done! 

Putting this mixture to one side for a moment, we melted another bowl of chocolate to create the outer layer. It's important to reach the perfect temperature of forty-five degrees Celsius before taking the chocolate off the heat and spreading it thinly onto a marble slab. This process of heating the chocolate and then cooling it quickly is called tempering. Once the chocolate had fallen to twenty-eight degrees, it was ready to pour into the moulds. I opted for a mixture of seashells and hearts which is about as girly as it gets.

Using our fingers, we ensured every surface of the mould was covered before filling the majority with the ganache mixture. It was surprising how quickly the candies set and within minutes we were able to add the bottom layer of chocolate to finish them off. 

Now onto the truffles! The ganache required for truffles needs five hours to harden so in true old school Blue Peter style, our chocolatier teacher whipped out a mixture she'd made earlier. This time, she'd infused it with coconut flakes. Using our palms, we rolled the ganache into tiny balls which would form the centre of the truffles. The mixture melted almost instantly in our hands so we had to leave the balls to harden again before progressing onto the next step.

Whilst they were in the fridge, we ensured that the remainder of the melted chocolate we'd used earlier for the candies was still at an optimum temperature. If it exceeds thirty-two degrees, it's necessary to repeat the tempering process. Luckily, ours was okay and so when the balls were ready we dropped them into the bowl and buried them in a thick layer of melted chocolate. Working quickly before they had a chance to set, we covered the truffles with decorations of our choice.

Here's where it became obvious who the children of the group are. Whilst Erica sprinkled hers with cinnamon and coconut flakes, adding walnuts as a finishing touch to her professional looking masterpieces, Hana and I reached for marshmallows, smarties and oreos to create a collection which could have been designed by an overexcited ten year old. Nevertheless, they all tasted delicious and we were extremely pleased with the results!

We only had a couple of days in Lima and spent the majority either making or munching chocolate but we did also find time to visit the Parque Del La Reserva. Here, we wandered around (and sometimes through!) the various abstract water fountains which are lit up in the evening with brightly coloured lights that change in time to the atmospheric music. Before we left we caught the laser light show projected onto a wall of water which was both beautiful and impressive.

Lima as a city feels very Westernised but we enjoyed our time there thoroughly and learnt a fantastic skill. I can't wait to recreate our truffle workshop in my own kitchen!