The city of Cusco sits at 3,400 metres high so it's a
great place to stay for a couple of days and climatise to the altitude
ahead of the infamous Inca Trail. We spent two nights there either side
of the trek which was just enough time to enjoy everything the city has
to offer.
Due to it being a base for Machu Picchu, the centre of Cusco is very
touristy but we were keen to delve deeper and find the true Peruvian hot
spots. Therefore, on our first day we joined a free tour with a local
guide called Luis who was also an avid historian. Along the way he gave
us a detailed lesson on Peru's past as well as some good tips on how to
avoid the usual tourist traps throughout Cusco.
The tour began at a viewpoint just a little way up the mountain side
which gave a great overview of the city. The main squares are pristine
and beautiful but once we gazed out at the peripherals, we couldn't help
but notice that the state of the streets quickly deteriorates. Even so,
Luis informed us that Cusco is one of the richest parts of Peru and
that much of the country live in complete squalor.
Our next stop was even higher, at the White Christ statue right on top
of the hill. Here, Luis explained that the religious beliefs of most
Peruvians are a little complicated. When the Spaniards invaded in the
sixteenth century, they enforced Christianity on the entire country.
However, many of the natives clung onto their Inca traditions and so an
interesting fusion has gradually evolved. As Luis spoke we were joined
by an elderly man in traditional dress who wished to play us a song. He
sang his little heart out whilst melting ours and strummed away on his
instruments with the biggest smile on his face.
Surrounding the Christ, there are various ruins which are now overrun
with llamas and alpacas. On our way back to the centre, we popped into a
store owned by Luis' friend who explained to us the differences between
baby alpaca and 'maybe alpaca' wool so that we wouldn't later be conned
at the markets. The most expensive garments cost hundreds of dollars
even out here but they're dreamily soft and worth every penny. In
addition, he showed us how they colour the threads using parasites which
they simply squish to create a deep red paste. By adding different
substances, they can then change the colour to purple, green, pink or
black. At the end of the demonstration, he held what looked like an
artist's pallette in his hands.
It had already been an educational afternoon but Luis insisted on
teaching us one more lesson; how to make (and drink!) a pisco sour. He
took us along to his favourite bar and shared with us his recipe which
he's perfected over the years. I swear the way the lime juice masks the
40% pisco spirit is nothing short of magic.
With Machu Picchu out the way, it quickly dawned on us that our South
American trip is nearly over so we hit the markets for souvenirs and
gifts. The entire place is like one giant, psychedelic rainbow with each and every
item so bright and multicoloured that it can be difficult to
differentiate between them. However, with a little perseverance we came
away with beautiful presents as well as some cheeky bargains for
ourselves.
The markets are also a great place to grab street food so we ate there
on a number of occasions for less than two pounds a time. Our favourite
Peruvian dish was Lomo Saltado but it seemed whatever we ordered, it was
impossible to avoid the carbicide accompaniment of white rice and
chips. Back at the hostel we also joined in on the alpaca BBQ night and
discovered that these fluffy little animals taste as good as they feel.
We were well and truly taken in by Peruvian cuisine so before we left
Hana and I spent the day at a cooking course, learning to recreate these
wonderful meals. In fact, it was so awesome that I've dedicated the
entire next post to it (coming soon!)
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