We'd been warned about the bus journey to Rurrenbaque.
'Don't do it', they said, 'take a flight instead.' But surely there's no
way it could be worse than the hundreds of others we've taken through
South America? The rollercoaster ride from Medellin to Ecuador? The
twenty four hours to Lima with the leaking ceiling and stinking toilet?
Or even most recently, the eighteen hours to Cusco on a bus so cold our
fingers turned blue?
Well, it turns out there was a way; many in fact. The bus to Rurrenbaque was nothing more than a tin box on wheels into which they crammed dozens of people, along with their twenty pieces of luggage each. Some families appeared to be literally moving house, whilst others were using the bus journey to shift their stock. The underneath of the bus was stuffed with everything from sacks of red onions, to live red squirrels (at least they were alive when we left) and our backpacks had the unfortunate job of cushioning a box filled with chopped up fish. We couldn't get rid of the smell for days.
Then there were the seats; we may as well have been sitting on rocks for twenty two hours and Hana and I were allocated the only two seats on the entire bus which didn't recline in the slightest. What is more, the little leg room we had was invaded by the crazy number of kids sprawled out on the floor because their parents hadn't bought them actual tickets.
However, even if the bus had had king sized double beds installed, there still would've been zero chance of us catching any sleep. The 'road' between La Paz and Rurrenbaque is in fact a dirt track with holes and ridges so deep that we were physically coming out of our seats as it bumped along. Just in case that wasn't extreme enough, the road follows the edge of the mountain so at times we were sure we'd be thrown off the cliff face!
It was no doubt up there with one of the worst nights of my life but arriving the next day in the Amazon was pretty awesome. We took one day to just relax and recover in the glorious Amazon sunshine and then booked a trip for the following morning to the Pampas wetlands. This also happened to be Erica's birthday so Hana and I woke up super early to wrap presents, blow up balloons and prepare a delicious nutella-filled breakfast before the jeep came to collect us.
After a three hour drive back down that dreaded dirt track, we arrived at the river where we boarded our boat. Gliding through the water felt heavenly in comparison to the awfully bumpy road and with the sun beaming down, it was the perfect way to spend the afternoon. That was before we even saw any animals! The Pampas wetlands are notorious for rainforest wildlife and we saw plenty along our way.
First and foremost were the alligators who were mostly basking out on the banks but occasionally we'd come across one taking a dip. Our guide assured us that these gigantic beasts take little interest in tourists but it was nevertheless pretty nerve wracking to be so close to them with only a wooden long boat as protection. If any of them fancied a change in diet, they'd smash through the boat in seconds.
A little less terrifying were the families of turtles and the tiny yellow monkeys we found bounding around in the bushes. The latter were so friendly that we were able to sail right up to them and some even joined us aboard the boat (although at this point Hana decided they were as menacing as the alligators.) Higher up in the shrubbery we spotted all kinds of birds of paradise, many so large that they appeared to defy all laws of science by being able to fly. It was like seeing a turkey up a tree!
We were almost at the lodge when the first dolphin appeared from beneath the surface. Unique to this area of the Amazon, these dolphins are pink in colour and as they swam a little way with us alongside the boat, we were absolutely mesmerised by their presence. However, we didn't dwell too long in the area as we'd be seeing much more of them the next morning and our guide seemed keen to reach the lodge.
Of course; it was the World Cup Final! The little wooden shacks were incredibly basic but somehow they'd set up a satellite TV and we watched the game from the comfort of hammocks out on the riverside decking.
Rather conveniently, it finished just in time for sunset so we jumped back on the boat and sailed a little way downstream to find the perfect spot to watch the sun disappear below the horizon. There was not a single cloud in the sky as it transitioned from its vibrant blue to bright orange, finally settling on a deep purple at dusk. Unfortunately though we weren't the only ones enjoying this beautiful setting; millions of mosquitoes had shown up to watch the sunset whilst simultaneously indulging in a feast. To avoid being completely eaten alive, we escaped back onto the boat and returned to our camp.
The way back was amazing. In the darkness, the water looked like rippling silk and the forestry either side was lit up with hundreds of tiny fireflies, twinkling in the treetops like fallen stars caught in the branches. The stars themselves, however, were not to be upstaged, shining brightly alongside the silver moon. We'd almost forgotten our reptile friends until our torches fell upon the golden lights glowing from the riverbanks; alligator eyes! It was pretty surreal and absolutely stunning.
Back at the lodge, we had dinner waiting for us and it was one of the most wholesome meals we've had in the whole of South America. To top it all off, they brought out a surprise birthday cake for Erica which was decorated with dulce de leche and tasted delicious! Sadly Erica was feeling ill so couldn't stomach any but Hana and I ate enough for everyone.
Before we knew it we were back on the boat again, this time to watch the sunrise. It was five thirty when we set off so still rather dark but whilst we couldn't see any animals, we could certainly hear them! The larger howler monkeys were out in full force, growling their 'Good Mornings' like monsters from a cave.
As we sailed along, a mist arose so although it was gradually getting lighter, our visibility barely improved. It was a little eerie but very cool and we arrived at the marshland just in time to see the red sphere rise behind a thick pink cloud. Though a complete contrast to the clear sunset the previous evening, it was by no means any less beautiful.
After a banging breakfast back at the lodge it was time to go and play with the dolphins. I'd been so excited to get closer to these animals but when it actually came to jumping into the water, I was pretty scared. There were alligators about; we'd seen dozens the past two days!
The lovely story we'd been sold that 'the dolphins' enchantments protect you from any harm' all of a sudden didn't suffice. I needed facts. Why, when there were so many alligators lurking about, were we so sure we wouldn't meet any? It turned out that the two never share the same space because dolphins only swim in deep water and alligators, shallow. Therefore as long as we followed the dolphins we'd be absolutely fine.
Phew. We were in! The river was a murky brown colour from the clay so we couldn't see the dolphins until they appeared right beside us. They have to surface every couple of minutes for air and it was amazing to be in such close proximity to these beautiful creatures. Back on the boat we did our best to capture the dolphins on camera but they continually outsmarted us and our best shots looked like nothing more than a greyish pink lump disturbing the water. Fortunately, even without the photos, I think it's an experience I'll never forget.
Before heading off, we stopped the boat for one last activity; a spot of fishing. It was then we learnt that we'd also been sharing the water with a bunch of piranhas! We were rather useless at first but by the end, we'd all three of us caught a piranha each. Hana's was yellow, mine and Erica's pink, and all pretty small as far as piranhas go. Even so, they still had teeth like tiny daggers which could do some serious damage regardless of their size.
Immersing ourselves in the Amazon was absolutely magical and one of the best experiences of our entire trip. I'd go as far as saying it was the perfect weekend, if only we now didn't have to get back onto that god awful bus...
Well, it turns out there was a way; many in fact. The bus to Rurrenbaque was nothing more than a tin box on wheels into which they crammed dozens of people, along with their twenty pieces of luggage each. Some families appeared to be literally moving house, whilst others were using the bus journey to shift their stock. The underneath of the bus was stuffed with everything from sacks of red onions, to live red squirrels (at least they were alive when we left) and our backpacks had the unfortunate job of cushioning a box filled with chopped up fish. We couldn't get rid of the smell for days.
Then there were the seats; we may as well have been sitting on rocks for twenty two hours and Hana and I were allocated the only two seats on the entire bus which didn't recline in the slightest. What is more, the little leg room we had was invaded by the crazy number of kids sprawled out on the floor because their parents hadn't bought them actual tickets.
However, even if the bus had had king sized double beds installed, there still would've been zero chance of us catching any sleep. The 'road' between La Paz and Rurrenbaque is in fact a dirt track with holes and ridges so deep that we were physically coming out of our seats as it bumped along. Just in case that wasn't extreme enough, the road follows the edge of the mountain so at times we were sure we'd be thrown off the cliff face!
It was no doubt up there with one of the worst nights of my life but arriving the next day in the Amazon was pretty awesome. We took one day to just relax and recover in the glorious Amazon sunshine and then booked a trip for the following morning to the Pampas wetlands. This also happened to be Erica's birthday so Hana and I woke up super early to wrap presents, blow up balloons and prepare a delicious nutella-filled breakfast before the jeep came to collect us.
After a three hour drive back down that dreaded dirt track, we arrived at the river where we boarded our boat. Gliding through the water felt heavenly in comparison to the awfully bumpy road and with the sun beaming down, it was the perfect way to spend the afternoon. That was before we even saw any animals! The Pampas wetlands are notorious for rainforest wildlife and we saw plenty along our way.
First and foremost were the alligators who were mostly basking out on the banks but occasionally we'd come across one taking a dip. Our guide assured us that these gigantic beasts take little interest in tourists but it was nevertheless pretty nerve wracking to be so close to them with only a wooden long boat as protection. If any of them fancied a change in diet, they'd smash through the boat in seconds.
A little less terrifying were the families of turtles and the tiny yellow monkeys we found bounding around in the bushes. The latter were so friendly that we were able to sail right up to them and some even joined us aboard the boat (although at this point Hana decided they were as menacing as the alligators.) Higher up in the shrubbery we spotted all kinds of birds of paradise, many so large that they appeared to defy all laws of science by being able to fly. It was like seeing a turkey up a tree!
We were almost at the lodge when the first dolphin appeared from beneath the surface. Unique to this area of the Amazon, these dolphins are pink in colour and as they swam a little way with us alongside the boat, we were absolutely mesmerised by their presence. However, we didn't dwell too long in the area as we'd be seeing much more of them the next morning and our guide seemed keen to reach the lodge.
Of course; it was the World Cup Final! The little wooden shacks were incredibly basic but somehow they'd set up a satellite TV and we watched the game from the comfort of hammocks out on the riverside decking.
Rather conveniently, it finished just in time for sunset so we jumped back on the boat and sailed a little way downstream to find the perfect spot to watch the sun disappear below the horizon. There was not a single cloud in the sky as it transitioned from its vibrant blue to bright orange, finally settling on a deep purple at dusk. Unfortunately though we weren't the only ones enjoying this beautiful setting; millions of mosquitoes had shown up to watch the sunset whilst simultaneously indulging in a feast. To avoid being completely eaten alive, we escaped back onto the boat and returned to our camp.
The way back was amazing. In the darkness, the water looked like rippling silk and the forestry either side was lit up with hundreds of tiny fireflies, twinkling in the treetops like fallen stars caught in the branches. The stars themselves, however, were not to be upstaged, shining brightly alongside the silver moon. We'd almost forgotten our reptile friends until our torches fell upon the golden lights glowing from the riverbanks; alligator eyes! It was pretty surreal and absolutely stunning.
Back at the lodge, we had dinner waiting for us and it was one of the most wholesome meals we've had in the whole of South America. To top it all off, they brought out a surprise birthday cake for Erica which was decorated with dulce de leche and tasted delicious! Sadly Erica was feeling ill so couldn't stomach any but Hana and I ate enough for everyone.
Before we knew it we were back on the boat again, this time to watch the sunrise. It was five thirty when we set off so still rather dark but whilst we couldn't see any animals, we could certainly hear them! The larger howler monkeys were out in full force, growling their 'Good Mornings' like monsters from a cave.
As we sailed along, a mist arose so although it was gradually getting lighter, our visibility barely improved. It was a little eerie but very cool and we arrived at the marshland just in time to see the red sphere rise behind a thick pink cloud. Though a complete contrast to the clear sunset the previous evening, it was by no means any less beautiful.
After a banging breakfast back at the lodge it was time to go and play with the dolphins. I'd been so excited to get closer to these animals but when it actually came to jumping into the water, I was pretty scared. There were alligators about; we'd seen dozens the past two days!
The lovely story we'd been sold that 'the dolphins' enchantments protect you from any harm' all of a sudden didn't suffice. I needed facts. Why, when there were so many alligators lurking about, were we so sure we wouldn't meet any? It turned out that the two never share the same space because dolphins only swim in deep water and alligators, shallow. Therefore as long as we followed the dolphins we'd be absolutely fine.
Phew. We were in! The river was a murky brown colour from the clay so we couldn't see the dolphins until they appeared right beside us. They have to surface every couple of minutes for air and it was amazing to be in such close proximity to these beautiful creatures. Back on the boat we did our best to capture the dolphins on camera but they continually outsmarted us and our best shots looked like nothing more than a greyish pink lump disturbing the water. Fortunately, even without the photos, I think it's an experience I'll never forget.
Before heading off, we stopped the boat for one last activity; a spot of fishing. It was then we learnt that we'd also been sharing the water with a bunch of piranhas! We were rather useless at first but by the end, we'd all three of us caught a piranha each. Hana's was yellow, mine and Erica's pink, and all pretty small as far as piranhas go. Even so, they still had teeth like tiny daggers which could do some serious damage regardless of their size.
Immersing ourselves in the Amazon was absolutely magical and one of the best experiences of our entire trip. I'd go as far as saying it was the perfect weekend, if only we now didn't have to get back onto that god awful bus...
No comments:
Post a Comment