Making it to Machu Picchu

Against all odds we made it to Machu Picchu. 

Rather than joining an organised tour, we made the bold decision to go it alone which would save us money and make it more of an adventure. And an adventure, we had! 

Day one began relatively well, starting with a simple bus journey from Cusco to Santa Maria which took us around five hours. For the last leg to Santa Theresa we had to transfer into a smaller collectivo because the windy roads around the mountain side were barely wide enough for cars, let alone buses. The drive was beautiful but a little nerve wracking as we zoomed through waterfalls and over rickety wooden bridges, all the while hoping we wouldn't meet an oncoming vehicle. 

 It was late afternoon when we arrived in Santa Theresa but we had just enough time to explore the tiny square and then walk to the natural hot springs down in the valley. Compared to the town which was virtually empty, the pools were rather crowded but it was nevertheless a perfectly relaxing evening in the most amazing setting. As dusk fell, the view was so stunning that it looked like a flawless black and white photograph behind us. You'd think we'd be all mountain'ed out by now but they never fail to impress me. 

The second day is where our journey took a turn for the worse. After a sugary breakfast we set off on a six hour hike but we'd barely made it ten minutes before having to stop because Erica had skidded and smashed her knee against a rock. For a while we were unsure whether we'd be able to continue but she soldiered on and before long, we were all distracted by other pains. It wasn't a difficult walk but the sun was beaming down on our sunburnt shoulders and our already fragile feet blistered right away. 

We made it to the halfway point, Hidro Electrico, by lunchtime so stopped again for something to eat. A small Peruvian girl decided to join us, helping herself to all of our snacks. Though cute at first, it soon became apparent that she wanted more than just our food and she turned pretty nasty when we had to say no. Fending off an attack from a five year old with pigtails was probably one of our all time lows. 

It was also our cue to get moving again so we hauled ourselves up and headed off in the direction of Aguas Calientes where we'd spend the night. For the majority of the walk, we followed the railway, diving out the way whenever we heard the sound of an approaching train. We arrived exhausted so checked into the first hostel we found and didn't move until our stomachs insisted. 

Having only passed a couple of tiny convenience stores on our way in, we'd assumed that this town was as small and quiet as the last but we were quite wrong! Upon entering the restaurant next door, we were amazed to find another entrance which led out to a bustling square the other side. Unlike the deserted and dusty old road we'd come from, it was full of grand statues, souvenir shops and an overwhelming number of cafés and restaurants. It was like we'd found a Peruvian Narnia! 

However, before settling on somewhere for dinner, we had to buy our tickets for Machu Picchu the following morning. Once we found the office, we were told we needed to present our IDs to make the purchase which would have been no problem at all were it not for the fact that both my passport and driving licence were locked up in my backpack, twelve hours away in Cusco. Panic stricken, I begged the lady for an alternative option and eventually she agreed that a copy should suffice. Once we'd found an internet café with a printer, it seemed our trip to Machu Picchu was back on track. 

The third and final morning we woke up at 4am with the intention of reaching the ancient city by sunrise. It was still pitch black when we set off and stupidly, it hadn't occurred to us to bring a flashlight. Every now and again we'd catch up with a group that had a torch between them but they'd eventually disappear again into the abyss and we'd return to tripping up every other step. However, despite the obvious difficulties it was still pretty exciting and we plodded along quite happily. 

That is, until the rain began. 

With an hour left ahead of us, a storm came hammering down which was not only dismal, but dangerous too as we were slipping and sliding up the steep path without knowing where to place our feet. We barely said one word to one another as we climbed, focusing all our efforts on just getting to the top. I'm not sure at what point I lost the others but when I turned around to gaze back upon the mountains emerging through the cloud, neither Hana nor Erica were anywhere to be seen. I stopped and waited assuming they'd catch up but after twenty minutes they still hadn't appeared. I was tired and began to doubt myself. Perhaps they are ahead? I continued on, deciding they must already be at the entrance waiting for me. 

But they were not. Confused, I waited for a further twenty minutes. 

Then thirty. 

Then forty. 

Where on earth are they? I was starting to worry something serious had happened so began to ask strangers if they'd passed two girls in trouble. It was light by this point and in their fluorescent pink and purple rain jackets, they really shouldn't have been difficult to spot. But no-one had seen them. 

Forced to assume that they'd gone in without me, I joined the queue to enter Machu Picchu. Cue my next problem. After digging around in my rucksack for the necessary paperwork, I pulled out only the disintegrated remains of my ticket and passport copy. The rain had seeped its way in through the seams, leaving me with very little evidence that I'd ever paid. I wasn't allowed in. 

By this point I was too tired to even process the thought of coming all this way and not setting eyes on the wonder of the world. What on earth will I tell everyone? Exhausted and completely out of ideas, I burst into tears. Fortunately a young official took pity on me and disappeared off to argue my case. Meanwhile, I took cover from the rain and attempted to reassemble the essential parts of my ticket. 

 It was then I finally spotted Erica and Hana - I don't think I've ever been so pleased to see them! We exchanged dramas (they'd taken a wrong turn and ended up walking the considerably longer bus route) and I waited for my little man to return. He took almost an hour but eventually brought good news and as if to acknowledge this happy occasion, the awful rain finally stopped. 

We were stressed, soaked and shivering uncontrollably from the cold, but we were in! Triumphantly, we marched through the final passageways and caught our first glimpse of the incredible Machu Picchu. Even with the cloud lingering around the surrounding mountains, the rows of stone ruins standing in the glowing green fields are indescribably beautiful. In fact, the fog almost added to the scene, giving it a mystical appearance like the lost city it once was. 

Moments later, however, it had disappeared entirely, overcome by a large white cloud which swept through the remains. We took this opportunity to find ourselves a guide who we hoped could bring the city to life with stories of its past. Before long we came across a young man with a dodgy haircut and creepy smile but an infallible knowledge of Machu Picchu. He took us around various important sites including temples, the king's houses and the main square, explaining what would have happened in each area. It's surprisingly big and took us over two hours to cover just one side but we needed that long anyway to dry off and return to a reasonable temperature before attempting to descend. 

The walk back to Hidro Electrico was lengthy and tiring but the promise of a warm bed and camomile tea back in Cusco kept us going. Once we reached the road, we caught a taxi back to the city with a local man named Walter whose chatty nature crushed any dreams we'd had of sleeping the whole way home. However, he was so sweet that we really enjoyed speaking to him and it was a great opportunity to practise our Spanish for a solid five hours. 

Once we eventually made it, Machu Picchu was everything I had dreamed and more and those stunning images will remain in my mind forever. I am so very grateful that I did in fact get to see them!